Dining at Heirloom in Chestnut Hill is not simply the act of grabbing dinner at a local restaurant, but compares more to be being a special guest at Chef Al Paris’ own dinner table – an honest dining excursion that is so personal you have to blink a few times to confirm that you are not at his home, in his kitchen.
The edible experience begins the second you step into the absurdly beautiful wine country-inspired BYOB. The fine-tuned space can’t be described in one simple breath– something that we find charming. Each accent has an intent and purpose. The rustic-infused restaurant mimics the chef’s farm-to-table concept, housing folky flair like a former butcher block-lined communal table that seats 12, central banquettes dressed with mason jars, vintage reproduction fabrics, and even an eye-catching back-wall lined with hand-stacked Pennsylvania blue slate.
But of course, the regional, seasonal menu is the establishment’s most important asset. And, it’s Paris’ sentiments towards always buying the best ingredients and treating them with the utmost respect that had us quickly fawning over his fare at his relatively new Germantown Avenue restaurant, which is located in Top of the Hill Plaza.
While diners may stereotype Chef Paris’ Heirloom as a farm-to-table eatery, his focus goes way beyond the “eating local” movement. He’s re-establishing America’s collective cuisine by making use of old-world recipes and techniques, some of which date back to the 1940s.
“I’m using traditional recipes and putting them forward in a modernist representation,” Paris shared. “I’m truly focusing on the ingredients, getting deliveries of fresh products every day, and leveraging relationships with local farms and creameries.”
All of the above seems relative for a man who self-proclaims himself as a “bibliophile.” Paris is a somewhat obsessed vintage cookbook collector and if his collection were lined up, the books would fill a room of fifty feet by ten feet.
“A passion of mine is the turn-of-the-century to the 1950s,” he said. “I’m putting forth my interpretation of a real classic American cookery with sustainable food.”
The recipe for Paris’ already-notorious spoon bread, served as an accompaniment for several dishes, was reconfigured from Ruth Berotzhiemer’s United States Regional Cookbook, which was published in 1947. Other classic cookbooks, among many others, used for “research” included Janet Greene’s preserving book, Putting Food By (published in 1973) and Frederick Philip Stieff’s Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland (published 1932).
Before we go on, let us confess: We think this seasoned, thoughtful chef has the capabilities to push anyone into stupendous bliss per any dish you hand-pick from his menu. But, being that we now feel the need to bow down to the chef during any of our upcoming Heirloom visits, we are taking it upon ourselves to recommend a few of our favorite dishes.
Don’t skip selecting a salad starter, preferably our favorite, the Heirloom Tomato Salad paired with Burrata. The gorgeous, buttery cheese is served warmed to “bring out the freshness,” and the accent of honey-infused balsamic vinaigrette offers a perfect introduction to the chef’s concept and cooking. A small plate of Short Rib Ravioli is in order for anyone who sets foot indoors – trust us. The ribs are braised for six-hours, and depending on when you visited, the dough pockets are topped with generous doses of either bleu or goat cheese – both are fabulous accompaniments, a win-win either way.
Coming from us diners who simply steer clear of ordering chicken as we think other meats appear more interesting, there is no suggesting that Paris’ Amish Chicken is boring. Smoked for hours in his back-of-the-house, self-constructed smoker, served with a pinch of apple-bacon jam, plus a fresh apple cider reduction, and a hunk of traditional spoonbread, this may have been the best rendition of poultry we have ever sunk our teeth into.
And, while you may think that you’ve reached full capacity – don’t you dare skip dessert. (If a breather is necessary, snag some French press java – it’s a local blend from neighbor’s Chestnut Hill Coffee Co.) Consider the Apple Pie Donut as your meal-closer, concocted with dough made fresh daily and fried to order. The whimsical, yeast-risen treat comes glazed, topped with vanilla ice cream and baked cinnamon apples, and is accented with a round of house-made oatmeal brittle. The fist-sized dessert also comes sided with macerated cherries and a petite caramel apple – stick included.
“People are saying ‘thank you for coming,’” Paris humbly concluded. “I’m the one that usually says that!”
And it’s true: we tip our hats to you, chef.
Heirloom serves dinner Tuesday–Thursday and Sunday, from 5–10 p.m., and on Friday – Saturday, from 5–11 p.m. Sunday brunch is served from 10:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m. Find Heirloom at 8705 Germantown Ave., Chestnut Hill. For reservations, call 215-242-2700.
Restaurant interior photographs are credited to and courtesy of Heirloom.
