Recently, I found myself mentioning Rino’s Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria among fellow foodies more than once. While I was not too familiar with the family owned and operated dining spot at the time, the overwhelmingly positive remarks that I received from all walks of life had me eager to get a taste of their “family tradition.” For over 25 years, Rino’s has been a cornerstone in the Exton community, and they’ve branched out in unique ways for a “mom and pop” shop in the restaurant industry.
Perhaps it was owner Lance Shortt’s impressive Seafood Lasagna sales of 1 million pounds on QVC that got the momentum churning for Rino’s back in 2005. The lump crab meat, sea scallops and large shrimp, coupled with a lobster blush sauce of shrimp puree, plum tomatoes, garlic and olive oil, has proven that it knows how to draw a crowd, but it’s the family’s hard work and dedication to customers that allows them to continue advancing. Rino’s is continually bringing new cuisine concepts and a variety of craft beers to the menu, and it was those two elements that brought me to Rino’s on May 23 with a Town Dish comrade happily tagging along for Rino’s first ever Beer School.
We saddled up at a table of two, arriving just on time and immediately following a large group of inquisitive craft beer folk. Jules Shortt, who juggles the role of owner Lance’s son, full time St. Joseph’s University student and Manager, greeted us with loads of enthusiasm and wasted no time introducing us to the beer representative for the evening, Matt Geiser of Long Trail Brewing Company.
Matt handled his temporary role as a teacher for the Thursday night beer school with professionalism, while managing to keep things casual and fun at the same time. When asked what he thought made Long Trail so special he recited a heartfelt response, claiming to enjoy how Long Trail makes “a beer you want to drink on a Tuesday. It doesn’t have to be a special occasion. I love that.”
He dove into every course with a special “behind the scenes” story about the selected beer, its brewer and how Long Trail was associated with each. From Wolavers Fine Organic Ales’ beekeeping beginning to Shed Brewery’s natural disaster recovery, it was a nice touch and stylistic approach that I never witnessed at a beer dinner before. However, with an empty stomach and my tastebuds calling the shots, it was Rino’s cuisine, prepared by new chef Jamie Campbell—a whopping six-courser laden with pleasant surprises—that naturally impressed.
It all started with a taste of the sea, which was rather appropriate with summer’s unofficial beginning just a few days away. The Wildflower Wheat from Wolaver’s was paired with a Creamy Crab Chowder, which delicately hosted an Old Bay Cheese Crostini atop the rich bowl of soup. The crostini was a nice spin, using traditional flavors in a classic bite, and the perfect dipping apparatus for Rino’s Chowder, which harvested a hint of spice that was tamed by the soup’s creamy characteristics, the rich bits of crab and a simple sipping beer.
We stayed near the sea with our next course, welcoming a Shrimp Corn Fritter with Ancho Cocktail Sauce. Separately, the fritter appeared to be a bit dry at first, but one dip of the of well-balanced sauce and Rino’s was back on top of their game. Already a bit of a condiment junkie heading into this beer dinner, I listened closely as the components were detailed, catching the extra emphasis on the addition of orange and lime juice, as well as crystallized ginger in the breading, which not only evoked thoughts of summer dining by the water, but also acted as the ancho’s overprotective older brother, allowing it to lash out some heat here and there, while keeping it in check for the most part. Any acting up from the ancho that was missed by the orange and lime was definitely compensated for in Long Trail’s Double White Ale, which boasted its own soft notes of citrus, too.
The Grilled Romaine course was one of the most well received that evening, perhaps because of the shock factor associated with a “pizza joint” serving salad in such a fashion, but they pulled it off quite well. The perfectly charred leaves were brought new life from their quick toss on the grill, bringing out flavors that aren’t typically tasted in a salad starter. I welcomed the Smoked Gouda and especially the Roasted Tomatoes, as a natural sweetness burst from each bite of the plump and tender fruit. The Otter Creek Black IPA raised questions about the brewing process, and its roasted malt flavor filled an emptiness that was present in our tasting lineup until that point.
One of my favorite dishes of the evening was, without question, the Blackened Asparagus and Blue Cheese Risotto. Holding the classic Italian dish on a very high pedestal throughout my food-loving life, I approached the hearty helping with caution, prepared for maybe an inkling of disappointment, but only because my risotto eating repertoire was jam packed with a lot of extraordinary experiences. Yet, Rino’s risotto quickly found its way as a notable dish in my mind. The crumbles of creamy blue cheese were never overbearing and, instead, popped up as a flavorful surprise in the occasional bite. Blackened asparagus was a nice complement but I wouldn’t have felt anything was missing if only the risotto was served. It was just that good.
Our last course was one that caught my attention from the very beginning, mainly because there were several words involved, like bacon, mustard and slaw, that never make it past my culinary radar untouched. That evening, they didn’t make it past my taste buds without praise. The Maple Mustard Slaw particularly stole the spotlight for me (yes, even among a Peppercorn Bacon Pork Loin) but I’m privy to pay credit to the little, complementing elements found within a dynamite dish. It was the sweet and sour combo of maple and mustard that most likely won my heart but I didn’t try too hard to get to the bottom of the flavor profile, for I was at the bottom of the plate before I knew it. This course washed down well with Shed Brewery’s Brown Ale, thanks to the mild bitterness in its finish.
It was strange to me at this point that I’d made it through five courses, each with five craft beers, and wasn’t exploding at the seams or zigzagging a path to the bathroom. The meal was definitely not skimpy by any means, and both beer and cuisine were selected in a respectful fashion and for the sake of being able to enjoy every sip and bite, even the homemade Cream Puffs and Baklava that, Jules proudly shared, were crafted up by some lovely Shortt family ladies.
One bite into the cream puff and I knew it was the real deal. I hadn’t enjoyed such a delicious and authentic cream puff in so long, I was beginning to think they no longer existed. They do. They’re at Rino’s in Exton, along with so many more offerings that each pack a special homemade touch and delicious character.
Fans of Rino’s or “first timers” can expect more foodie experiences and innovative changes to take place at the old time Exton family spot. As for craft beer lovers in the area, it wouldn’t hurt to check out their current, large and growing craft beer selection. It slings over 135 bottles and 12 beers on tap and continues to grow weekly. Mixed six-packs at reasonable prices are also on the horizon, along with 6 additional taps, more beer school classes and monthly tastings, so stay tuned to Exton Dish for details.
Check out Rino’s Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria at 315 E. Lincoln Hwy in Exton; phone: (610) 363-0515.
Photographs by Kevin Dragone.
