By Evan Wawrzyniak
I never found much to write home about in regards to Exton. With so many historical and cultural hot spots throughout Chester County, I always thought of Exton as nothing more than a crossroad in the middle of my mundane daily commute.
But nestled between highway and bypass 30 along South Whitford Road sits the perfect example of what Exton once was. The Duling-Kurtz House & Country Inn has not only stood the test of time, but avoided the developer’s shovel as well. Time ticks back to the 1930s the moment you turn into the parking lot and the warm arms of the house invite you in.
Duling-Kurtz has already proven themselves with an array of foodie award … Wine Spectator awards of excellence 11 years in a row, check; extraordinary-level rating from Zagat, psssh, been there done that. Any place that parades awards of that caliber should automatically put high expectations into my head. But, throughout my culinary adventures, the countless “Extraordinary” restaurants I’ve been to that just seem to fall flat put me on the defensive.
Being the big ball of mush that I am, my skeptical attitude melted. The sounds of a live jazz band bounced off the walls and reverberated through my body. Walking into the bar past a proudly displayed (and awesome) beehive oven that touches on the property’s past, I paused to enjoy a quick obligatory libation. Sitting at the bar, I started to get a feel for the environment and crowd.
Casual conversation filled the room from young and old alike; the bar was cozy and accommodating, intimate yet lively. Sipping on my bourbon, I began to relax my posture. I never felt like I was out of my element. This was really an easy place for anyone to walk into and instantly feel like one of the regulars.
My date and I were ushered back through the foyer and towards our table, situated in a romantic little nook in the back of the Inn. This is where the pure amazingness of Duling-Kurtz began to shine through.
The wine list was perfect. With a simple, well-thought-out arrangement of varietals, it was inviting to the novice, challenging to the aficionado and showed off the restaurant’s ability to cater to menu pairings, not just overload on typical brands. Accessibly starting out at $30 a bottle and climbing to well over $100, there’s a bottle for every occasion, taste and budget.
It was after this that one of the true pleasures of the evening greeted us — our waiter, Scott. His knowledge, enthusiasm and genuine personality led the way to a refreshing experience so often missed by other establishments that hold themselves to a similar caliber.
Still lingering on my wine choice, I enthusiastically tackled the menu, which featured an eclectic mix of French and German cuisine with a subtle Americana backbone. My mouth watered over the selections as a small tear of culinary joy rolled down my face.
Instant appetizer standouts were the Hudson Valley Foie Gras with a pear vanilla puree, walnuts and brioche, as well as the Escargots de Vienna with sea salt and garlic butter. Escargot was a very solid choice, as the amazingly tender little guys sat in their own private vat of butter adorned with tiny puff pastry top hats (yum). The foie gras was prepared with the passion and delicacy required of such a dish. It was laid atop a brioche surrounded by a unique twist to most variations I’ve had — puree of pear. It was a wonderful complement to the rich and buttery taste of the foie gras.
The service was prompt and attentive as the scraps of my appetizer were cleared and I placed my entrée order. Standouts were wiener schnitzel and lobster crepes, as well as the staples of rack of lamb and filet. But one dish at the bottom of the menu screamed for my attention: Chateaubriand For Two. This instantly brought me back to my youth, as this was the signature dish at my late grandfather’s favorite watering hole. I easily convinced my date to forgo all else to indulge in this one-time feast with me.
Chateaubriand is a thick cut of the tenderloin portion of our loving friend, the cow. And when prepared properly — and this was — it is among the most flavorful and tender cuts available. It was sliced and prepared tableside to reveal perfect medium rare medallions with a crunchy caramelized crust. A demi-sauce drizzle was laid out on the plate, followed by the thick-cut medallions atop. This was accompanied by a slathering of béarnaise, finally coming to rest next to a medley of wild mushrooms. The juxtaposition of sauces and textures played with my taste buds, only adding to an experience that is truly special.
Chef Joshua Taggart has set himself apart from the pack, creating well-thought-out dishes that will amaze the adventurous to the timid. Followed by a supporting cast of waiters and waitresses, bartenders and managers, this production and experience is truly felt from top to bottom. Dinner was removed, wine was finished and the night waltzed to a close with nightcaps, dessert and jazz.
Duling-Kurtz far exceeded any thoughts I had prior to entering. It’s refreshing to find an establishment that holds to high standards while maintaining an accessible and inviting atmosphere. The cost is on the high side, but reflects the quality of service, experience and food you will receive. Don’t let that scare you away. Options such as reasonable wines by the glass, generous appetizers and a wallet-savvy list of daily lunch and dinner specials will easily fill your stomach and shoot down any notions of “haute cuisine” you may have.
Duling-Kurtz is appropriate for any occasion — from a hot night out to the casual cocktail and appetizer with friends. It’s a true gem of the region.
5 Comments