By Ken Alan Throughout my life I’ve had the good fortune of visiting dozens of casino properties across the continent, from the shimmering Lake Tahoe resort, to a rundown slots parlor somewhere near Truckee, California. I once rubbed elbows with actor Joe Pantoliano (you’d know him from The Sopranos and The Matrix) when he was throwing out the ceremonial first roll at the pre-grand opening celebration of The Borgata in Atlantic City back in 2003. (If truth be told, my biggest thrill that night came from staying in what I assumed was a virtually DNA-less hotel room since I was their very first guest.) I have checked out of Foxwoods, only to check into The Mohegan Sun just one hour later. I’ve marveled at the roulette tables of the magnificent Atlantis on Paradise Island; ran madly through the onboard casino of the SS Oceanic when I was eleven (nicking two bucks in unclaimed slot machine coinage), and, I am probably the only human being who has ever spent four days in Las Vegas and never bet a single dime—till I dropped two lucky quarters into an airport slot machine while boarding my plane. I hit for eighty-bucks. So, I may not be much of a player, but I always leave the casinos with a story. Which leads me to Mount Airy Casino Resort… Situated in the heart of The Poconos, and only minutes away from other notable attractions including Great Wolf Lodge, Camelback Mountain Resort and Skytop Lodge, the luxurious property is the built-from-the-ground-up reincarnation of the old Mount Airy Lodge. Whereas the former Lodge was a kitschy Borscht Belt-era relic, this 21st century jewel is state-of-the art throughout its gaming, meeting and lodging facilities. The casino itself boasts over 52,000 square feet and contains 2,000 slots, 72 gaming tables, a nightclub and an exclusive VIP area. Each of the 188 finely-appointed guest rooms is a comfortable enclave – and clean. My room was spotless throughout my visit. The soothing spa retreat offers countless amenities and treatments within its bamboo lined inner sanctums. And the 18-hole championship golf course beckons duffers from near and far. It’s no wonder then why this aerie retreat has garnered Four Diamonds from the American Automobile Association. TripAdvisors and Yelpers seem to really like it, too. Looking like a modern chalet perched on the hilly inclines of Mt. Pocono, and featuring a gorgeous indigo-hued waterfall that cascades through its impressive lobby, the property impresses at first glance. But what really stunned me in a positive way, was the quality and the complexity coming from Mount Airy’s kitchen. There are several food scenes: Betty’s Diner is 1950’s retro-cool, The Noodle Bar serves up Asian cuisine, and The Buffet is a copious splurge. Mount Airy’s two premier restaurants are the Red Steakhouse and Le Sorelle Cucina. Red is subdued and sort of old world looking with burled-wood and ruddy lighting —a departure from most of the other polished onyx chain-looking places of today. Contiguous within the vast space is Le Sorelle Cucina (“The Sister’s Kitchen”) serving outstanding, and yes—somewhat surprisingly well-done Italian cuisine. Why so surprising? Well, from my past meals at other Pennsylvania casino properties, I guess I just wasn’t expecting such impressively-trained kitchen and front of house staffs at a casino resort. It all began with Henry the affable bartender. He poured me a perfectly neat Manhattan while striking up some interesting conversation—the sort of gentlemen I’d enjoy drinking with if circumstances presented itself differently. Soon the trio to my left chimed in; locals – friendly-as-can-be regulars who regaled me with tales of the resort and touted the bar’s Sunday night piano player (Jerry Kuzic), while sharing satisfying hunks of their delicious meatball & wild mushroom flatbread pizza. Departing my new friends, I was led to my table amid an ornate room containing large scale paintings of “The Sisters,” and an impressive crest of The DeNaples Family, who are the long-running owners of the property. First up, I enjoyed Sicilian Baked Oysters—a nicely gooey and very plump version of Oysters Rockefeller—topped with spinach, pancetta and robiola cheese. I watched the intimate room quickly fill with diners as my Caesar salad (pictured right) arrived. It was a simple yet satisfying dish, two crisp Romaine hearts covered in a creamy dressing and fenced on one side by long garlic bread sticks. The entrée was a mid-winter winner: slow cooked braised short rib (pictured below left) in a hearty red wine reduction with tender islands of gnocchi, and a delicate net of fresh arugula. The finale, a raspberry topped chocolate truffle torte (pictured below right) with real whipped, was like a cocoa blessing when it arrived at the end of this stellar meal.
The culinary program at Mount Airy was as refreshing to me as the clear Pocono air outside. My goal had been to get to know the facility so I could understand their meeting and lodging opportunities. I departed having learned so much more. Like most of my casino-based sojourns, I did not gamble while visiting this casino. Still, I can’t help but to think that I definitely walked away a winner. La Sorelle Cucina photographs credited to Ken Alan; Borgata exterior photograph courtesy of The Borgata; Mount Airy exterior and Red Steakhouse photograph courtesy of Mount Airy Casino.
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