When past generations said they were “taking a drive out to Lancaster,” what they usually meant was the trek along busy Route 30 (or, maybe, Route 340, its more homespun parallel counterpart) for a day’s fill of quilt shops, Amish buggy rides, shopping at the outlets and a smorgasbord pig-out made complete with a big old slice of shoo fly pie. Sure, we’d ride around Lancaster, but no one ever ventured into the actual city.
Today, America’s oldest inland city is a far cry from your daddy’s Lancaster of yore. This tidy and easy-to-navigate town has not only paced itself with the times, but Lancaster has become downright progressive due to its booming economic, artistic, culinary and architectural renaissance.
Who’d-a-thunk, but it is true: Lancaster is cool!
For those of us living around Philadelphia’s western suburbs, it’s also quite close. A recent trip with my family took only one hour’s time – the same amount it takes to make the car crawl into Center City Philly, and without the hassles of crunchy traffic and outrageous parking tariffs.
With the weekend ahead and an exciting agenda to follow, I yielded onto the PA Turnpike, aimed westward and off we went –
First stop: The Lancaster Marriott at Penn Square.
This historic hotel is at the very heart of the city. With its restored Beaux Arts façade and soaring antiquity-drenched lobby (the former Watt & Shand department store, circa-1898), along with its integration of the adjacent convention center, the property had succeeded in becoming the revitalizing anchor to the city scene.
Of note: The hotel has a great spa, a tasteful American restaurant (Penn Square Grille) and a night club called the Rendezvous Lounge which rages into the wee hours like something out of the Hard Rock Hotel in Vegas – not what we expected from someplace that’s situated in the heart of Amish Country!
Next stop: Lancaster’s Central Market.
The name is its location. This is literally at the city’s logistical nexus (just across from the Marriott), though that’s only half the story. Stepping inside as we did several times throughout the weekend, we discovered the meats & cheese hustle/farmer’s greens, jams & bakery bustle of this, the oldest continuously operating market in the country. What truly makes this vendor-filled venue so special is its aged wonderment – several stand holders have been selling here for over a century – every stall has its own interesting story. The customers are also unlike any we’ve encountered elsewhere. Translation: they’re polite.
Here’s an Alan-ism I prescribe to:
“A city is only as great as its beer.” Along with nearby craft brewers, Stoudt’s and Lancaster Brewing Company, there is a newcomer of note in this town – Springhouse Brewing Company.
Through ales & lagers of exceptional quality, Springhouse is becoming a malt & hoppy force to be reckoned with; it also operates Springhouse Taproom which is adjacent to the Central Market in the heart of it all. I ducked in and tried a sampler, marveling at the plucky piquant flavoring of the Mango IPA, and I also sampled their Imperial Peanut Butter Chocolate Stout (To my mind, the Reese’s Cup of brewskies). Indeed, this must be a great city because the beer is awesome!
One of Lancaster’s premier meeting destinations is also its brunch-ing one; Best Western’s Eden Resort offers creamy tones and golden glows throughout its 284 guest rooms, events & public spaces and especially, its spectacular indoor Courtyard with an impressive stone-tiered waterfall, flagstone floors and station after hearty station of brunch foods galore. Here, every Sunday they come – fans and minions of the award-winning Champagne Brunch. Think: The most bountiful buffet you’ve ever laid eyes on, and then triple its size.
We delved into bagels, fresh-baked breads, muffins and sticky buns. We hit the pasta station (hard), forked into cured meats & cheeses; freshly-prepared crab cakes and sliced roast beef, lox awaited as did generous schmears of cream cheese. Countless desserts called to us. Buttons began to pop on pants. The agony of the ecstasy of it all!
Though I’ve never really been into trains (I’m a European car guy), the overall scale of the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania is far from being lost on me. Those 100 hulking locomotives in all their historically-significant magnificence really moved me. Situated in a late-19th century recreation of a train shed, boasting a real Pullman car, a 1950’s Whisper-liner and old iron sided steam locomotives, the Railroad Museum harkens back to life along the line, one train at a time.
Blonde, handsome, raw boned and whip thin, Caleb, our driver and guide from Aaron & Jessica’s Buggy Rides, extolled the virtues of Amish life and the Mennonite way as we rolled peacefully along a quite country road and past farms and fields. “You’ll notice the absence of electrical poles and wires leading to the houses on this road,” Caleb pointed out to us. “As built up as it’s become around here, there are still many nearby who still practice the ways of old.” The ride was relaxing and Caleb was informative. This land – so close to our own home – held a history so far removed from the lives we lead.
In my memories, I recall recall those filling trips out to Plain & Fancy Farm, the landmark smorgasbord known for its family-style bounty – the original farm to table concept.
We were seated with an elderly couple, who hail from a few counties away, and also a couple named Jeff & Pat who said they venture to this renowned dining institution several times a year. Out came the potato rolls & raisin bread; bowls of chow-chow and pepper cabbage; heaping plates of golden fried chicken, baked sausage, roast beef & chicken pot pie; copious sides including mashed potatoes, dried sweet corn & green beans. Desserts-a-plenty, too. We feasted while I kept an eye on my 10 year-old daughter, making sure she kept her hands away from Jeff & Pat who ate like there was no tomorrow.
Far from plain, The Lancaster Arts Hotel (seen above) redefines lodging and dining through its refreshingly simplistic yet ultra-stylized motif within an old tobacco factory. Now the stony walls and wooden beams hold 63 boldly-decorated guest rooms (Lady Gaga has been a guest and so has Tony Bennett), $300,000 of art work and the John J. Jeffries, considered by the local fooderati to be the best restaurant in the county. Chefs Cavanaugh & Carson uphold their belief in sustainable, locally-based foods of the finest quality – no hormones, antibiotics, steroids or unnatural raising practices.
The menu in this decidedly comfortable, un-stuffy abode crests beyond New American and into Global lands & waters. Kookaburra Farms grass fed steak tartare, spicy Jim Bim Bop (pork kimchi) and a wild Alaskan salmon are three exceptional representations brought from across the planet and onto our plates.
What makes this city so special?
It’s the people! A thriving student base from the arts college, nursing school and Franklin & Marshall University gives the city a vibrancy. Cosmopolitan starter families and middle aged transplants have all discovered the magic of this urban oasis, as has a thriving retirement-aged community. The Baby Boomers are cultured, energetic and would rather take in and be a part of this happening scene than watch it from the sidelines.
Add to the mix, several top-notch theaters (The Fulton in the heart of town is a true American classic), funky shops and art galleries along Queen Street, a caring community spirit and of course, all those wonderful restaurants and you there you have it: The New Lancaster.
Head across the county to take in the world as it was, or journey into the city itself and experience the modern ways of today. Lancaster in 2012 is definitely more than a just a little bit country.
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