By Sara Johnson, Owner of Swig—Professional Bartending & Events
When Goat Hollow Tavern shut down in 2004 after 17 years of operation, Mt. Airy lost more than a bar and restaurant. The neighborhood lost a community landmark. So it’s no surprise when news broke last year that ”The Goat” was on its way back under new ownership, the good neighbors along Mt. Pleasant and Lincoln Drive welcomed her back with wide open arms. Now simply named Goat Hollow, and armed with a brand new look and menu, this historic watering hole proves that everybody loves a comeback story.
With the help of a number of locally owned businesses, including Design Nehez, Filippi Brothers Inc., Philadelphia Salvage Company and Metcalfe Architecture & Design, new proprietors Neil Campbell, owner of Race Street Café in Old City, and business partner Andy Shahan have turned out a complete renovation, creating what you might call an “industrial cottage” out of reclaimed materials: a wood-burning fireplace between the bar and dining area, barn siding along the walls, an impressive bar, a wait station, even church pews to augment seating.
Chandeliers made from real tree roots add a handsome touch to the main dining room (Andy drove to Pittsburgh to pick these up the night before opening!), while upstairs a wonderland of strung lights made from cut glass beer growlers greet you. It’s obvious a lot of thought and care went into creating the dining experience, and I couldn’t wait to pick up a fork.
Chef Adam Glickman (of Monk’s Cafe fame) filled his American Brasserie style menu with a number of hearty dishes, shaped by a variety of moules et frites, burgers, and salads, as well as belly-warming appetizers, sandwiches, and entrées. The definitive favorite between my date and I was the pickled pork belly dumplings, a satisfying and clever starter filled with pickled daikon, shallots, ginger, and enoki mushrooms. The grilled diver scallops (available as an appetizer or entrée) were cooked to perfection and paired with a tasty risotto cake and white wine beurre blanc. And oh, the frites! Shoestring french fries with a spicy dipping sauce—well let’s just say we asked for a second order and leave it at that.
What impressed me the most was the mature and inventive bar menu, which would be just at home in Center City as it is on an unassuming side street in Northwest Philadelphia.
The list features a new twist on many classic cocktails—like a Snap Daiquiry and an Apple Sidecar—as well as others cheerfully named after popular neighborhood landmarks, like the Germantown Juice (a variety of flavored vodkas, orange liqueur and lime juice), Lincoln Drive Liberator (vodka, melon liqueur, mango and lime juice), and Mt Pleasant Manhattan. The Meadowsweet, a breezy concoction of light rum, herb simple syrup and fresh lemon juice, was my date’s preferred cocktail of the night. For me, it was the beer cocktail, a mix of gin, creme yvette, lemon juice, and Kölsch (made only in Cologne, Germany), irresistible for the name alone: the Skip and Go(at) Naked. As a perfect cocktail for the inevitable April sun, Andy informed us an outdoor dining area is in the works. I can certainly see myself enjoying a few Skips with friends . . . and hopefully not following in the namesake of the cocktail.
And for the beer lovers, “The Goat” (as she’s affectionately known) hosts 22 frequently changing beer taps, including 2 pumps and 2 nitrogen lines. Throw on a superb variety of 30 bottled beers, 15 wines by the glass or bottle, and some homemade cajun popcorn for happy hour, and I have no doubt you’ll be able to find something that suits your tastes.
As we sat at the bar and observed the bustling little restaurant, the excitement of the owners, staff and customers was actually contagious. I could feel the passion and emotion of a long awaited revival story in the air. If our night’s experience was indicative of every night, then I hope this comeback is here to stay.
Photographs credited to Sara Johnson. Learn more about Sara and Swig by visiting them online at swigevents.com. Be sure to also follow Swig on Facebook by clicking here and on Twitter @swigtender.
