It’s balmy one day, chilly the next: such is late winter/early spring in the northeast. No matter, though, when I reminisce on my Dish Trip to Santa Monica, Calif., where the sun shines bright, the winter weather is mild and the food is summer fresh all year long.
Hubs and I have been fortunate enough to take this annual pilgrimage for quite a few years now, and we’ve narrowed down our go-to spots. But it wouldn’t be a Dish Trip if we didn’t snag some new left coast eats, too.
Everything is so just-picked, farmed and funky in California: words like “locally sourced” are a given, so I don’t use them below. We were there five days, so sadly I can’t review every delightful dish. Here are a few of our faves at these worth-the-trip eateries.
Coast at Shutters on the Beach: Yes, it’s steps from the beach, and we love watching toned locals jog with their tiny dogs. Now truth be told, I have a hard time eating first thing in the morning. At home, I rock Arbonne shakes because drinking breakfast works a lot better for me. But in Santa Monica, I must have these two items during my stay: Lemon Ricotta Pancakes and the Bull’s-Eye Skillet. The pancake order is generous, and topped with super-ripe fresh berries. The ricotta makes them moist and fluffy, while the lemon tempers its inherent sweetness. You can eat these straight-up with no butter and syrup, but why? The Skillet is eggplant, spicy tomatoes and arugula dressed with over-easy eggs and a dainty baguette slice slathered with goat cheese. The hearty eggplant works nicely with the zippy tomatoes and peppery arugula; it’s pulled together by the gooey yolk.
JiRaffe: Every year when I make resos, I ask if the Cucumber Martini is still on the menu. You know they’d make it for me, regardless, but I have to know and drool in advance. And while everything is always superb, this year, props to our starters. Hubs loves him some beets, and the beautifully presented Roasted Organic Beet Salad with caramelized walnuts, dried cherries, goat cheese cream and banyuls-ginger vinaigrette had him singing a happy tune. Roasted beets are semi-sweet, as is goat cheese, but the vinaigrette cut that nicely while the earthy walnuts added crunch. The Classic Tomato Tart had me at “burrata”—organic tomatoes, caramelized balsamic onions, basil pesto, ratatouille sauce, olive tapenade and my beloved burrata were a party on a plate. Seems to me JiRaffe’s kitchen has mastered the art of sweet-savory and, this time, with a silky balance.
Sonoma Wine Garden: High atop Santa Monica Place is a sunny little piece of al fresco Sonoma. Sure, you could grab a seat indoors, but I can’t imagine why. This is one of our favorite lunch spots, and we always listen carefully for the specials.
I had the Heirloom salad, incredibly ripe and almost dripping-juicy Garcia farm tomato, homemade ricotta, crouton, basil, olive oil and balsamic. This was a very savory, nearly tart salad kissed off with the rich balsamic that turned the ricotta into almost-a-dessert. Hubs indulged in The Grilled Cheese, a much too humble name for Gruyere, cheddar, béchamel and herbs. I have no good review of this except what sounded like “nomnommmmnomnom.” Sorry. I can tell you my Director’s Cut chardonnay was perfectly chilled, smooth with a touch of oak. Both glasses. It was vacation!
Wilshire: This is our evening al fresco must-do. Nestled behind the restaurant between shops and offices is the most delightful little courtyard, complete with trees. The night sky peeks through decorative canvases and hanging lights that play off the fire theme and pervades the restaurant: candles on the walls, artsy fireplaces. Oh, and the food’s great, too! My quest for dessert was quashed when we decided to split the Mac ‘n Cheese side dish: who could resist tummy-warming and pleasing fontina, smoked mozzarella and spinach? Milky and smoky prevailed in this comfort dish. Hubs was delighted to see the Slow Braised Short Rib on the menu, one of his favorite cuts. The orange gremolata glaze (almost a marmalade finish) and polenta (super moist with all the right corn bread-like notes) made for pleasing textures. I was all-in when I saw Scottish Salmon, lightly seasoned and cooked just right, on uber-umani chanterelles finished with a very trendy foam.
Locanda Del Lago: You work up an appetite wandering the Third Street Promenade, yet a light lunch is needed some days (have you been reading the bounty?!). For me that was the Insalata Mercato: crunchy Coleman’s Farm Organic Market lettuce with herbs and edible flowers sweetened just-so with a fruit-forward Market Raspberry Vinaigrette. Hubs settled on the Italian Club of grilled chicken breast, Roma tomato, “Guanciale” Italian bacon, avocado and truffle mayo. The presentation—check out the black-olive skewers—was as good as the sandwich. Of note: think salty from the bacon, smoky from the truffle
Fig: The 80-foot tall Moreton Bay fig tree (second largest in California), circa the 1880s, grabs your attention when you stroll down the long driveway. Then, the food makes you forget that local landmark. Brunch is sooooo very left coast here, from the dish towelesque napkins to the gleaming bright ambience. I chose Fig for the amazing amount of veggie-inspired dishes, and settled on Pastaless Lasagna that was as hearty as any I’d had in my carnivore days. Sweet potato was a great sub for the pasta, and added not only texture but also a deep roasted flavor that partied nicely with the San Marzano tomatoes. The dish was made complete with Bloomsdale spinach and mozzarella. This was a first dining experience at Fig, and we’ll be back.
Tar and Roses: Another new one for us, and another that pretty much illustrates that sumpin-sumpin that makes California cutting edge. Part edgy, fireplace-and-burner heated outdoor patio; part bustling charcuterie and cheese shop, dimly lit, and dotted with tables for two; part gourmet store; all about as chic as you can get.
Kudos to chef and owner Andrew Kirschner, whose cuisine we’d been enjoying for years during his time at Wilshire. His funky offerings range from meat-lovers paradise (lamb, oxtail, pig tails) to very veggie. We settled on way too many courses to describe, so I’ll just hit two. First, a very mild, buttery Sunchoke Soup that got its crunch and its sweet on with the Gorgonzola and brown butter pear crouton. Then, another of Hubs’ favorite cuts: hanger steak, sitting pretty on sunchoke puree, chanterelles and cippolinis. Between bouts of his eyes rolling back in his head, he reported the steak was tender, juicy and spiced well, and that the slight bite from the cippolinis made the dish.
Dessert, You Fickle Mistress: I really tried to avoid dessert, but then our friends at the Sonoma Wine Garden slyly mentioned Chocolate Pot de Crème. Seriously? Made with real cocoa nibs, housemade whipped cream and cute little cookies that made great dippers. I was hooked. The rich but not heavy mousse-like confection delivered big on the chocolate flavor. The next round through, I spied Blueberry Blintz on the brunch menu, and couldn’t resist. Just-made, warm and soft, filled with lemon ricotta, drizzled with berry compote and dusted with powdered sugar, this was sweetness kicked up in a light, fluffy confection.
People often ask me how I keep my weight in check after a Dish Trip. Well it’s back to the shakes, duh! It’s also a mindset: I am not, not, not going to deprive myself of the “nomulence” available in a foodie destination like Santa Monica. We start each day with a long walk and chase each lunch with the same. There’s something magical about the mild air, the sound and sight of the Pacific, this bustling small city on the edge of imposing Los Angeles. I wouldn’t say I practiced all things in moderation, but I did sample as many things as possible during each day’s three squares. Hey, I can always repent when I’m home!
Photographs credited to Nina Malone.
