I walk up to the entrance of the 401 Diner and everything seems different: Sure, the 401’s sign along bustling Fayette Street in downtown Conshohocken remains the same with its cool retro font; the restaurant’s exterior is still topped in shiny, diner chrome and pink neon, and the entrance way hasn’t lost its chock-a-block beveled glassed-in foyer.
Along the front facade, there’s a new artistic mosaic – a tree design comprised of various types of glass, mirrored and textured – a symbolic, if not personal signature of the 401’s owner. Tom Richter is visually expressing his passion toward horticulture and all things natural. The imagery is also a representation of his family’s lineage from the roots on up.
As I enter, I recall when the eatery originally opened in 2000. Back then it held the hopes of locals as well as us drones who were beehived in nearby office complexes. We saw it as a place that would provide comfort meals. Instead, with its Nifty Fifties retro look and its traditional (if mostly uninspired) fare, the restaurant barely lived up to its diner designation.
Richter, who also operates the outstanding Mediterranean tapas restaurant Isabella just downhill from the 401, has recently taken over ownership. He quickly faded out the Happy Days kitsch and has injected panache and earthiness into this homey re-do.
The pink neon interior is gone and so is the vinyl. Booth dividers have been replaced by tranquil, artistic screens with crafted glass from the famed Youghiogheny River of western, PA. Tables have been hand-hewn (by Tom) and are meticulously inlaid with ceramic and glass tiles. Amber teardrop pendant lamps give off an earthy warmth, as they suspend moodily over tables. Bench seats are actually recycled church pews. This isn’t you’re typical diner.
Yet, walking in, I sense that familiar and welcoming Conshy vibe. A positive part of the original diner is still present. I recognize it upon seeing the veteran mail carrier who’s chatting amiably at the counter. There’s also Nicole, the caterer’s kid from up the block. I recall when she was a tomboy teen, now she’s a fetching twenty-something professional. A 401 server, Cece Leventhal, whom I recall as a borough local who used to operate her own comfort café years ago) gives me a typically Conshy salutation, “Yo, Ken!” and then brings me a menu. Yep, the past & present are as still one in the same at the 401 Diner.
Tom’s son, Peter is the manager of the 401. He pours forth a legitimate earnestness combined with a pleasing demeanor. The idea of operating an upper-scale version of a diner appeals to Peter, and with his marketing and design background, he certainly seems right at home.
Isabella’s executive chef Michael Cappon has crafted a well thought out breakfast and lunch menu of comfort food classics. There are several filling omelets: the requisite Western, the bacon & cheddar, along with the “Conshy” which features wild mushrooms, roasted peppers, caramelized onions and Gouda. Eggs used in these fluffy starters are from Lancaster County and they’re of the free range variety.
Other breakfast specialties include a ham & Hollandaise blanketed Benedict, satisfying corned beef hash, and hearty creamed chip beef. I go for healthy and order the Tofu Scram which is a silken derivation of the original, sans the ovum. The creamy tofu chunks are folded nicely into a flavorful mix of sautéed spinach, roasted tomatoes & forest floor of loamy wild ‘shrooms.
Being the chicken salad junky that I am, I also order a to-go container of the diner’s scratch-made version which features fresh chunks of breast meat. It is a noteworthy mixture; pleasantly on the sweet side thanks to the savory addition of apples & dates.
At another lunchtime visit I’m all about the grilled Atlantic salmon burger which is served on a pillow-y Le Bus brioche. The line caught fish is obviously very fresh. It’s been mixed and patty-formed in the kitchen as opposed to having been taken puck-like from a freezer. Temptingly topped with roasted peppers, cucumbers and fresh herbs, the fish burger makes a great meal.
This time around I also go for the not-so-healthy, and I’m glad I do when ordering a heaping plate of the 401’s hand-cut truffle fries, which have been expertly crisped and then tossed in a killer combo of salt, herbs, parmesan and white truffle oil. Oath-inducing (I want to scream: “These fries are so #@%& good!”), they’re actually worthy of an article all their own. Really, really tasty fries!
Tom, Peter & Mike are looking to lure dinnertime diners with the addition of an abridged after 5pm complement of meal items. These include Ma’s Meatloaf with smashed potatoes ($12), slow roasted turkey with brioche stuffing ($13.50), grilled salmon with truffled mushrooms, sautéed spinach and jasmine rice ($15.75), and grilled rib-eye steak & roasted potatoes ($21). BYOB is welcome.
Unlike other diners with their hulking refrigerator display cases of revolving cakes & pies, the 401 Diner’s dessert selection is scaled back to a few select choices. These include apple cobbler, dark chocolate moon cake, carrot cake and the homemade challah banana bread pudding.
Unlike my first visit circa 2000, when I came in with high expectations and left disappointed, my recent trips to the 401 Diner have been most fulfilling. There’s definitely excitement to go along with the décor & menu renovations. Thus far, Tom and Peter Richter along with Chef Michael Cappon are doing it right at the 401 – brand new, yet already a Conshohocken classic – with a conscience.
Find 401 Diner at 401 Fayette Street in Conshohocken or online at 401conshydiner.com. They’re also available by phone at 484-351-8029.
Photographs courtesy of Dallyn Pavey.
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