Originally created for The Daily Local.
West Chester Parks & Recreation Department’s Annual Chester County Culinary Cook-off returned to the 34th Annual Restaurant Festival on Sept. 15, pitting four of the county’s acclaimed chefs against one another—all for the year-long title of “Best Chef of Chester County.”
From 2010’s competition until this year’s, chef Jonathan Amann of Downingtown’s Amani’s BYOB held the culinary championship on lockdown, sweeping the timed cook-off for three years running with artistic compositions like a truffle salt-seared sea scallop with foie gras and Bluefoot mushroom-fried wontons, and a seared halibut with a pumpkin butter, hazelnut crust and a whiskey molasses glaze. The food scene heavy-hitter moved to the judges’ seat for 2013’s competition, eager to see who would fill his shoes in the “best chef” challenge.
Phoenixville chef Andrew Deery of Majolica returned to the cook-off for a second attempt this year, having competed successfully in 2012 only to fall short for his lack of use of the point-hefty, secret ingredients. Chef David Wassel of Exton’s Riverstone Cafe and Winner’s Circle joined the competing ranks; a serious newcomer to the challenge who trained vigorously leading up to the competition. Interestingly enough, Wassel and Deery have culinary history, with Wassel acting as Deery’s sous chef for several years at Majolica.
“He is a very respectful, hard-working gentleman, and I am eternally grateful for his years of hard work at the restaurant—he helped make Majolica what it is today,” shared Deery, prior to competing against Wassel.
The remaining professionals vying for the 2013’s title included nutritional and cooking coach Libby Mills, of WCHE’s Libby’s Luncheonette radio program, and also chef R. Tim Lazansky of West Chester Golf & Country Club.
“I have never competed in a culinary competition before and honestly, thinking about cooking in front of so many people makes me nervous,” shared Lazansky, leading up to the competition. “I’m confident about my food, but I’m usually creating my gourmet specials behind-the-scenes. If I win the competition, it will prove to me that I can do anything I set my mind to.”
And, the battle began …
At 2 p.m. on this blue-skied Sunday, the four competing chefs lined up in front of a live audience on the historic courthouse steps in downtown West Chester, ready to prepare three rounds—an appetizer, entree and dessert—for the three judges (myself, Amy Strauss; chef Jonathan Amann, and Chester County Hospital Nutritionist Kim Knipe). There were three mandatory ingredients that they were required to use: Faroe Island salmon, provided by Gadaleto’s Seafood Market, for the appetizer round; venison loins from Country Butcher, for the entree; and pasta, provided by Vera Pasta, for the dessert round. Like any serious culinary competition, two surprise ingredients were sprung on the cheftestants on-site—local honey and farm-fresh eggs—forcing the competitors to think outside of their intended recipes in order to claim victory over this challenge and truly showcase their skill sets.
Round One: Faroe Island Salmon Appetizer Course
West Chester’s Gadaleto’s Seafood Market stocked each contestant with fresh hunks of salmon, each crafting a remarkable meal-starter that the judges collectively confessed they could enjoy on the regular. Wassel opted to throw ripe, multi-colored heirloom tomatoes in the spotlight, as an eloquent kiss goodbye to the peak growing season. Pairing the red and orange beauties with a perfectly-seared, skinned fillet of the salmon was a swift move, as was finishing the plate with multiple dimensions of acidity and texture (oranges, radishes and capers).
Lazansky entered the ring by way of India, concocting a quick chana masala curry to accompany his rare-grade salmon. As an eye-catching cannonball into the competition, we were eager to see what else Tim had up the sleeves of his whites. Also unveiling a dish with international flare, Mills built a fun-filled, textural playground in her Asian-influenced Bibb lettuce wraps, wherein bits of crispy salmon skin popped amidst zesty salmon tartare and crunchy rice noodles.
Deery’s ambitious competing dish, salmon five ways, could have been viewed as four additional and unnecessary chances at elimination. But, with each petite option impeccably fine-tuned, illustrating various skill sets possessed by the talented chef, including precision pickling, smoking and searing, he quickly became the leading contender of 2013’s competition.
Round Two: Country Butcher Venison Loin Entree Course
Kennett Square’s Country Butcher Fine Foods Market’s venison loins may have presented a challenge for competitors, as a dish can go awry if the protein is over- or under-done. Libby kicked off the competition with a mindful juniper and rosemary-stuffed loin, served with a healthful company of orange-steamed brussels sprouts and farro. Even though the chef encountered a snafu during her 30 minute prep time—she lost power!—she still was capable of presenting a well-balanced and -prepared entree for the panel.
Andrew soon stepped up to present his entree second, vocally humbled by the fact that he does not tend to serve venison in his Phoenixville restaurant. That’s not to say he can’t beautifully prepare it—which he did. Arriving as a cool medium rare, the peppered, pitch-perfect venison could have very well been served solo, but to our delight, came plated the slices with a colorful mix of honey roasted mushrooms and a heap of popped amaranth.
Chef Tim whipped up an age-old, family dumpling recipe for course two in his hearty approach to venison. Root vegetables and a cherry reduction were some key components in this wholesome creation, together illustrating one soul-warming, autumn-themed option. David swooped in to present the final dish of round two, wowing judges with his flavor-packed and incredibly juicy venison that arrived crowning a heap of black truffle risotto. The mini parsnips, rutabaga, figs and amaranth added to the composition made for one profound dish, leaving us to contemplate our judgement more than ever before.
Round Three: Vera Pasta Dessert Course
West Chester’s Vera Pasta offered a choice of four fresh pastas to the chefs for the final, dessert round, including ricotta gnocchi, sheet pasta, rigatoni or gemelli. While all three courses brought the four chefs’ impressive talents to the spotlight, it was this final round where their true, creative methods shone brightest.
With chef Wassel still needing to make use of the secret farm-fresh egg ingredient, he modified his dessert course on the spot, topping his blissful bowl of pumpkin spice gnocchi with a graham cracker-coated fried egg. As we forked through the sweet pile of pasta, we “oohed” and “ahhed” over how it was as if we were savoring decadent bites of pumpkin cheesecake. At first apprehensive about a fried egg atop something so sweet, with one bite, our position immediately shifted, as such on-the-spot mouthwatering additions are clearly the makings of a great chef. Chef Mills tabled her initial decision to make use of the gnocchi while on stage, opting instead to make a dessert ravioli stuffed with Pecorino Romano, pear and mascarpone cheese. We were presently surprised by her spontaneous product, a sweet-and-savory coupling at its finest.
Chef Lazansky also selected the sheet pasta to craft a fried dessert pocket with a crunchy cookie crust. Plated with fruity swirls and chocolate ganache, we thoroughly enjoyed his whimsical approach to his final competing dish. For chef Andrew, he cleverly transformed Vera’s pasta sheets into flawless cannoli shells, pumping two fillings into the dainty interiors for supreme bites—a banana/walnut and a sun-dried cherry/pistachio blend. He even went ahead and crafted a chocolate ganache for spooning, proving that this chef is always one step ahead.
The Verdict: Chef Andrew Wins Best Chef
The command over the culinary arts illustrated on 2013’s chopping block was impressive, and we know that local diners are lucky to have such masters whipping up dishes daily. But with 35 points available to each contestant per course, only one chef could tally up to “Best Chef of Chester County” status. Though this year’s winner made it to first place by only a two-point lead, the well-deserving and uncommonly talented Andrew Deery earned the title of Chester County’s newest “Best Chef.” Putting forth supreme, artistic compositions in a calm, cool fashion, the judges’ calculations proved that this new local food champ was certainly worthy.
When asking Andrew pre-competition if he possessed “Best Chef” characteristics, he replied, “I am NOT the best. No one is. Cooking, especially in a restaurant environment is a difficult coordination of circumstance, skill and luck.” He continued, “If I can turn out 250 plates on a given night, and have a few of them hit the table perfectly as intended (temperature, plating, doneness, flavor and have the recipient appreciate it)—well, I’m at my best. We all have our moments and we are all the best.”
And, with such humble sentiments, we truly believe that chef Andrew Deery is worthy of the year-long “Best Chef” crown, and we raise our forks to you!
Taste test the Best Chef of Chester County in Phoenixville at 258 Bridge Street. More information is available online at majolicarestaurant.com.
Photography credited to Bonsai Doll Fern Photography.
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