Be prepared for a bit of a wait. Or call ahead with plenty of time if take-out is your choice. The food at Filet of Soul is that good. Cooking to order in a true neighborhood mom-and-pop operation, Filet of Soul clings to the west corner of the Caln Village Shopping Center like a gooey mound of macaroni and cheese on the side of a loaded plate.
There’s no denying that owner Lisa Morris is the soul behind the “Soul.” She talks about her decision to dive headfirst and full time into this venture. “I’m at a point in my life where I can devote more time to bringing more people together with food. That’s important to me. That’s what life’s about.”
Her foray into the world of restaurant entrepreneurship actually began in the ‘90s with her highly successful hot spot called Kwanzaa in SoHo. Known for being a champion of quality soul food, restaurants, the African American community and women, Lisa knew what she was capable of. After a few starts and stops she eventually brought that passion back to the rolling hills of suburban Chester County.
Enthusiastically partnered with Traci, her technical guru husband of three years, and home-grown energetic chef Catina Milbourne—known locally as “Teen-Teen”—they’ve been going at it for a little over a year at this location. Promising ethnic Island fare, BBQ slow-smoked on the premises and Southern-scratch cuisine, this crew definitely has it going on—but let’s be real—it’s the food that’s the star of the show here.
Sizable appetizers include sweet and tangy jumbo shrimp, spicy jerk chicken and mango salad and salmon cakes atop mixed greens with citrus salsa.
Entrees run the gamut from fried whiting and tilapia dishes, which can be broiled as well, through lip-smackin’ rib and BBQ plates, chicken and turkey wings and braised oxtails. All entrees include two sides and a few thrown-in hush puppies. Guest recipes also make the occasional appearance on the menu; a recent one, cherry empanadas, went over like—well, cherry empanadas!
Side dishes can often be an afterthought at some places, but not here. The rave-worthy sides are substantial, well-produced and downright delicious. Potato salad, cabbage, sweet potatoes, Southern-style baked beans and fried ripe plantains fill out the meal nicely. Jamaican rice and peas, coleslaw and grits are also waiting to be devoured.
While doing some selective sampling of my own, I decided to keep things simple and went for the basics. These are my go-to-dishes anywhere that makes a soul-food claim. The fried chicken with a perfect crunch and seasoned well was moist. Five cheeses creamed smoothly for a winning mac ‘n cheese that packed a smokey flavor making “my tongue slap my brain.” My personal “barometer” of a Southern-style meal is collard greens, and Filet of Soul most definitely did not disappoint. Slowly stewed with turkey and just the right kick of hot sauce, these greens were—what’s the word I’m looking for? Bangin’.
There’s enough seating inside to take care of the suburban crowd. Be sure to tote along your favorite bottle of Zinfandel or a six-pack to wash down this cuisine that is just too hard to find in this area. Local urban and ethnic art line the Caribbean teal walls in a simple, no-frills approach that is comfortable and welcoming. Catering and takeout are huge successes here.
Insider Tips
Splurge on desserts like coconut cream cake, lemon crunch cake and can’t-do-without sweet potato pie. Most are made on-site. Take advantage of the Tuesday special where 10 chosen entrees are just 10 bucks and the $1.99 kids meals are a steal. And last but certainly not least, check the Filet of Soul Facebook page for upcoming jazz, karaoke, poetry and special-event evenings not to be missed.
Not wanting to rest on the laurels of exceptional food alone, the Morris team has recently filed for nonprofit status to promote community causes that both feel are worthwhile. Veterans’ dinners and sensory-friendly meals specifically set up for children with autism are on the roster. Moreover, Lisa also serves as a mentor at the Coatesville Kids to College program for youth interested in beginning businesses. Several students and Keith Wilburn, the program’s executive director, joined our interview.
Filet of Soul can be found at 3911 W. Lincoln Hwy. in Downingtown; phone: (484) 364-4705.
- Filet of Soul owners photo: Ed Williams
- Remaining photos: Filet of Soul
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