Oysters — source of pearls, inspirational metaphors, and gastronomical joy — require a great deal of skill to be opened. Not just anyone can swiftly pry one open; it takes a special gene to become an oyster shucker extraordinaire.
Fortunately, West Chester has Joe Morrissey, the “Oyster Assassin” and winner of the 2007 West Chester Restaurant Festival Oyster Shucking Competition. This guy opened two dozen oysters in just 3:07, despite collapsing tables, heated rivalries, and swarming crowds. I had the pleasure of interviewing Joe yesterday at the new and impressive Pietro’s, where he currently works as a garde manger preparing appetizers, salads, desserts and all things cold. With a confident, easygoing manner, he enlightened me to the ways of the oyster shucking world and revealed how he had become an oyster master himself.
How did you originally get involved with oyster shucking?
About nine months ago, (while working at Doc Magrogan’s) I joked with Gordon Weldon, who runs the oyster bar at Doc’s, “When are you gonna teach me how to shuck oysters?” Two days later, I had it down. I picked it up really fast, but it still took two days to really understand how oysters work.
How does it feel to be the master oyster shucker of West Chester?
Awesome! I feel like I have really accomplished something colossal, It feels like at 22 I am on top of the world and for me I have a long road still to travel in the industry, so I cant wait to see where the future takes me and the opportunities I have in front of me. But I couldn’t have done any of it without Gordon, he has been instrumental in my development, he really is the oyster king, and I feel lucky to have ever had the opportunity to work with him. He is and will remain one of my best friends for the rest of my life.
What did you do to train?
I hadn’t shucked an oyster in two and a half months. Right before the competition, everybody warmed up by shucking a dozen oysters at Doc’s. After two or three, I had it back.
Was there pressure during the competition?
I was so nervous before the competition. Blaze (from Spence) and I were out smoking cigarettes before the competition and I was just shaking. You can see a photo of me just staring at the oysters before the competition began. After they shouted, “one, two, three, shuck!” I just got to work and focused.
I noticed lots of contestants leaving with bandages. Ever hurt yourself?
The first two days — most people get hurt when they’re first learning — but since then, never again.
Do you like oysters?
Not at first. I never thought I’d like an oyster or a clam. I didn’t actually try an oyster until I learned how to open then. Once I start, though, I really got into it. It’s kind of like an obsession.
What’s your favorite oyster?
Kooma modo (from Humble Bay, CA) or Balange oyster. I eat them with tabasco sauce, very hot. I love spicy food.
Favorite place to get oysters?
Doc Magrogan’s. They started with 8 types of oysters and now feature 10-20 varieties. On Mondays they have a buck-a-shuck special.
Does Pietro’s serve oysters?
We don’t have an oyster bar — maybe eventually. I’m hoping to make some “guest appearances” at Doc’s to keep up with it. Pietro’s is a great place to work, though. It’s not like a corporate restaurant. We don’t cut corners, and everything is fresh — the ingredients, herbs, etc. We all work great together, too. We all love what we do, and we’re basically with our friends all day. We’re like one big family. Sean and Tami are the best chefs I have ever worked for, they work the most hours and still take the time to pay attention to every detail, and they also take the time to show me something new everyday to keep me well rounded and always learning in the kitchen.”
One final question: are oysters really an aphrodisiac?
Yes and no. You’d have to eat a lot of them.
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I myself had never tried an oyster until Joe shucked one for me at Doc Magrogan’s after the interview. He served mine up with a squirt of lemon and tabasco sauce and instructed me to basically just slurp it down. I have to admit, I had my reservations — generally, I’m not a fan of foods that look like they belong inside a tissue — but man, it was delicious!
Whether you’re an oyster connoisseur or an oyster novice like myself, you can enjoy oysters right in town at Doc Magrogan’s. Anxious to try opening them yourself? (Note: WC Dish suggests not trying this at home, or at least keeping plenty of bandages handy before you do.) Stop by Gadaleto’s seafood to buy a dozen.
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