Sneaking into the basement-level setting of Phoenixville’s newest restaurant, Pepperoncini Sotto, we arrived ravenous and parched.
Our first impressions of the evening were undeniably exciting. As we sped into the bistro’s frosted glass-lined event space for the first of the Italian wine dinner series, we were handed champagne glasses bubbling with Prosecco.
As Paul DiBona, co-owner and chef of Pepperoncini’s, raised his glass for the evening’s toast, we were giddy with anticipation to soon slip under the spell of Italy’s northern wine country–one known to most as varietals predominantly from Piedmont.
For the tasting adventure, DiBona was joined by David Greenstein from The Wine Merchant who beautifully guided guests, sip after sip, through the complexities of each of the featured Italian vineyards (included show-stoppers of Venice, Trentino and of course, Piedmont).
While Tuscany may be the most notable region of Italian wine, our edible escape into the northern territory deserved a hearty “bravo.” Greenstein suggested quite clearly that “grapes are really very different in the Piedmont,” and through Pepperoncini’s recent feast, we now fully understand that there is much more to Italian wine than those sourced from the Tuscan turf.
After having our attention perked by the Prosecco toast, the evening’s sommelier splashed a straw-yellow Damilano Arneis 2009 into our wine glasses. This Piedmont-sourced white wine was the perfect follow-up to the our reception beverage as it was light and dry, slightly-fruity and refined. DiBona selected a one-shot scallop crudo to accompany this sip, one that had been dosed with a quick citrus chile oil and a drop of our favorite – Sriracha.
Soon, a crescendo of impressive courses unfolded, accompanied by a Veneto-sourced, medium-bodied San Vincenzo Anselmi 2009. The honeyed-white pour shined through with this pairing of grilled fresh swordfish smeared with a house-made herb caper butter. In fact, we obsessed over the course’s buttery accent to a point of embarrassment–but to the chef, we have no shame and thank you.
My dining companion, Melissa Woodley, shared with me during the inspired dinner that what she enjoys most about wine pairings is how both the food and the wine are elevated to a higher level when paired properly. And for her, this was most evident during this second course, “when the hearty fish managed to mellow out the robust white wine.”
But the dinner had not stopped there, we still had course three and four to tackle.
We promptly moved onto the reds of the evening, returning to Piedmont for a semi-sweet Deforville Dolcetto d’Alba 2009 (meant to be sipped “young”). The luscious sample coupled with a light serving of Parmigiana Reggiano and spinach-topped veal medallions was subtle and sincere, showcasing an honest Italian dish that was pleasing to all palates.
For me, the evening’s most darling dish–one that I wish to forever request seconds for–was the Braised Pork Tortelloni Sfatto. Even when our table was served this pinch-perfect plate, our server discussed that she was obsessed with this concoction, somewhat jealous she too was not sitting down with us to enjoy its glory.
DiBona works wonders with this slow-braised pork (note: it is the eatery’s signature dish, available always on the menu) and Greenstein’s pairing of Gonzaga Terre Di San Leonardo 2007 (a blend of CabSav, Merlot and CabFranc) was able to vibrantly compliment the dish without distracting from it.
Together, with our fellow wine lovers, we toasted away the perfectly-paired evening with flutes of house-made limoncello – an ideally-spiked batch that had been plopped with crave-worthy lemon sorbet.
I am certain that the hosting duo had achieved success with Pepperoncini’s first-ever wine dinner. And by the sound of the space’s chatter, we knew others’ agreed. But, don’t worry: You too have the opportunity to experience DiBona and Greenstein teaming up for future wine dinners in the coming weeks. On Mon., Oct. 17, uncover the Central Regions of Italy with the fellows, including Lazio, Tuscany and Umbria; and on Mon., Oct. 24, sip through the Southern Regions including Campania, Sicily, Calabria and Puglia.
More information is available by clicking here (menus included). Call 484-924-8429 for reservations. A limited number of seats are available for these private dinners.
Pepperoncini Sotto is located at 184 Bridge Street in Phoenixville or online at pepperoncinirestaurant.com/sotto.
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