German cultural and culinary traditions run strong in our family. We’ve traveled all over the Motherland (including a visit to a relative’s brewery) and speak German to our two little girls. Recipes for schwarzwälder kirschtorte and hasenpfeffer have been passed down for generations. A München dirndl even hangs in my closet.
Without question a favorite restaurant in Philadelphia is Brauhaus Schmitz, which offers the city’s most authentic German cuisine and an outstanding list of beers. Which is why I was most eager for the release of Brauhaus’ chefs Jeremy & Jessica Nolen’s first cookbook, New German Cooking—Recipes for Classics Revisited.
German cookbooks are hard to find. Great German cookbooks are rare. Which is why New German Cooking fulfills a void for many. Gorgeous photography complements over 100 recipes that feature bright flavors and inspired interpretations of traditional cuisine. While several of the recipes can easily be made during a weeknight, many are adventures for the intermediate cook, like hand-cut noodles and homemade sausages. New German Cooking is a beautiful celebration of the evolution and sophistication of this often overlooked cuisine.
PA Eats caught up with Chef Jeremy Nolen this past week. Read on for his perspective and then stop by Brauhaus Schmitz this Wednesday, February 4, from 6-9 p.m., for a special book release party with Jeremy and Jessica (718 South Street, 267-909-8814). Light appetizers and selected dishes featured in the book will be served in the restaurant’s Brauer Bund room, complimentary for all those purchasing a copy of New German Cooking.
PA Eats: What are your favorite recipes from the book? What should we make first?
Jeremy Nolen: There are a lot of great recipes for any occasion. The paprikash is an example of an updated recipe where it would normally be braised—this chicken dish is marinated and grilled. Lots of flavor!
Do any of the book’s recipes cross over with menu items at Brauhaus?
A few of them are on the menu and many have been featured as specials. The sauerkraut kroketten is always a favorite for parties as well. It’s something that my dad made for our parties growing up and I’ve used it here. Everyone that makes it loves them! Our pretzel recipe, which has won Best of Philly before, is in the book as well as our apple strudel. Those two are really popular at the restaurant and make an appearance in the book.
Tell us about the making of this cookbook. How long did it take? Challenges?
I never really thought about writing a cookbook. I mean, as a chef, you would love the opportunity to do one, but it was not really something I thought about much. I was actually approached by my current agent about writing it and I thought it would be a great idea. I wasn’t even sure how to get started, but she guided me along and made the process so much smoother. All together, it took about 2 ½ years to get the deal, write it, edit it, and publish it. Some of the most challenging parts were changing recipes from a restaurant to a home kitchen, and taking the ideas out of my head and adapting them so that they aren’t difficult for the average cook to work with.
What is your favorite place to source ingredients for these recipes?
The Reading Terminal Market is a great place to get everything you need. We have a stand there called Wursthaus Schmitz where you can get some of the German ingredients that we call for.
Find Brauhaus Schmitz at 718 South St. in Philadelphia; phone: (267) 909-8814. Copies of New German Cooking—Recipes for Classics Revisited are available on Amazon.
- Photography: Jason Varney
