His number one priority is community, but that doesn’t mean the cuisine falls to the wayside. As the executive chef and owner of Portabello’s, Brett Hulbert has been around the culinary block, piling up experience from coast to coast with a seafood expertise. He’s performed demonstrations for Bobby Flay (after which he was invited to the famous chef’s party in New York City but had to decline) and for Giada de Laurentiis, but you’ll never come close to feeling a huge ego when chatting with the laid-back talent of Kennett Square.
I recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Brett, meeting his wife and business partner, Sandra, chatting with his employees and, oh-so-thankfully tasting a few specialties. The attention to detail was phenomenal in a very simplistic way, which Brett was quick to highlight as a culinary philosophy from Italian cooking that he’s most fond of. His use of this technique was over-emphasized in the most delicious way with the mushroom ragout that had only five ingredients but those ingredients were so fresh and of such high quality that nothing else was needed.
This isn’t the only dish on Portabello’s ever-evolving menu that boasts fresh, high quality ingredients. Brett stays local as much as possible sourcing mushrooms from nearby farms and The Mushroom Cap, which is not even a block away, breads from Sweet Christine’s Bakery, ice cream from La Michoacana, and other various purveyors. Brett landed in Kennett Square after 20 years as a chef in New Jersey, where he learned to love and perfect seafood dishes, and he now uses that experience on unique, fresh fish offerings at Portabello’s on a weekly basis.
Aside from the fun dishes that you certainly won’t find anywhere else, Brett keeps it interesting by changing up the “regular” dinner menu every two to three weeks. He also entertains the appetites of his guests who come in undecided by having them “pick a region of the world,” giving him a little direction, then he’ll craft a dish that’s not even on the menu. He doesn’t even have to leave back of house to accomplish such a task since Portabello’s open kitchen concept lends him the opportunity to greet regulars with a wave and friendly chatter, as well as share his bubbly personality with newcomers.
Although this was (shamefully) my first visit to Portabello’s, it will certainly not be my last. I was able to kick back in their unpretentious environment and sample some of the finest cuisine my taste buds have ever met, all while learning what truly makes this Kennett Square eatery so special. In short, it’s this:
Top 4 Reasons to Visit Portabello’s (Again & Again)
The Cuisine
My tasting started with Brett’s house-made mushroom hummus and roasted scallion butter, paired with toasty warm bread then segued into an off-the-menu appetizer sampler of reishi mushroom soup, mushroom crepes and portabello fries.
The mango ginger salad was a refreshing treat before biting into Brett’s famous Avalon crab cake and making way for “Kennett’s best burger,” which came with a side of hand-cut fries and pickled mushrooms.
If you’re thinking mushroom overload, think again. Brett and his team have found a way to use the area’s most popular ingredient in a unique and irresistible way. They’re “having fun with it” as Brett claimed and you should definitely get in on that action. When you do, don’t forget to BYOB (note: there’s NEVER a corkage fee).
The Crew
Whether you’re popping in for lunch or dinner, special occasion or a weekday meal, the team at Portabello’s is super inviting and knowledgable. I could quickly tell the amount of respect they all have for each other and the amount of fun they have together, too, both of which are crucial for a successful operating a team.
The Community Dedication
When I asked Brett to list a few of the most important elements to his restaurant, he didn’t hesitate a bit before stating his first concern—community. He had me wanting to move to Kennett Square (more than I already did) by the end of the meeting, and work at his restaurant, too! It was the most genuine expression I’ve ever witnessed regarding dedication to local companies in the area, whether within the food industry or not. He shared time and time again, “we’re seriously one big family.”
The Coziness
Sure, the kitchen is open to the dining area but that big space doesn’t take away from the coziness. Regulars and newcomers alike will feel right at home with the neutral decor, comfortable lighting and clean quarters, which is good because the first three reasons to visit Portabello’s will most likely keep you in that seat for quite some time.
Find Portabello’s at 115 West State Street in Kennett Square.
Street photo by Portabello’s. Remaining photos by PA Eats.
