It’s worth a quick trip to Manayunk just to marvel through the menu of Mango Moon.
Interesting and unfamiliar foods will swirl your desiring intrigue as you gaze through the characteristics and charm that Chef Nongyao “Moon” Krapugthong details at her darling second restaurant on the main strip of the popular northwest suburb of Philadelphia.
Seeking to introduce locals to a very specific strand of Bangkok’s cuisine—its street food, Krapugthong, who also has her hands in the area’s authentic Thai restaurant up-the-street, Chabaa Thai, decided to daringly dance in a playful, exotic interpretation of what she finds best in the street stalls and stands of her native neighborhoods of Thailand. (She still returns to Bangkok several times a year, too.)
In the last few years, Bangkok has become renowned for its smorgasbord of innovative traditional treats that modernize the classics with a mouth-watering twist. Even more so, it has become the sought-after destination for flocks of foodies obsessing over their next best bite. But, lucky for East Coast eaters, they may now rejoice for the next masterpiece in their mouths may not require a plane ticket, but instead, may be found delightfully close to home.
Opening in late 2008, Mango Moon gives owner/chef Krapugthong the freedom to perfect her culture in a new light. Considering this eatery “experimental and challenging,” she laces together her authentic herbs, spices and seasonings in small plates that are one-of-a-kind, entertaining her guests with an evening of adventurous dining that is as much of an experience as it is a satisfying meal.
On our recent visit, after becoming acquainted with the enchanting presence of the chef herself, my dining companion and I embraced the concept of allowing our dinner’s destiny to be fully in the hands of the Krapugthong, agreeing to take the time to tackle the food she knows to vibrantly well and whirl through courses as she massages her culture through eye-catching miniature plates.
Starting with tasteful build-your-own Meang Khum, we pieced together pan-roasted coconut in leaf wraps that we accented with fresh ginger, sun-dried rock shrimp, and palm sugar sauce, while chit-chatting with the in-house mixologist Mike Burlieght over our first house-infused cocktail. Notorious for splashing concoctions with everything from Thai basil and Aloe Vera juice, to lychee puree and chile-aged tequila, the allure of Burlieght’s cocktails match the attraction of Chef Moon’s creations.
While I could sip on Mango Moon’s signature champagne cocktail or the booming-with-basil “Hail to the Queen,” we found that the evening’s show-stoppers unraveled one-by-one. The spicy baby octopus, drizzled with a fresh house-made chili-lime dressing, packed a sweet-and-savory punch that signed-off with a slightly smokey farewell, and for the beautifully-prepared central-style Thai sausage, the Sai Klog—you will forever be imprinted in my memory as the most marvelous construction of minced pork meat I have dared to devour.
Main courses like the herbal-rubbed duck breast with pineapple and fresh basil leaf, and the spiced Krapao frog legs with oyster and fish sauce, allowed us to lavish in the fine-tuned capabilities and notoriety of the chef. Let’s not forget the crispy mussel fritters, either, as they forced us to time-warp to Thailand, as if we were grubbing on the sidewalk enjoying every last bite.
Even if you grooved in the glory of a quick trip to Bangkok through Krapugthong’s bountiful bites and shareable plates, you can’t exclude your sweet tooth on this journey. Opt for the egg custard, served warm with rice milk and grilled shallots. The sweet symphony of creamy perfection topped with a snappy finish highlights her brave waves of waltzing on the wilder side of her culture’s cookery.
And, as Chef Moon requests that you “trust her” in preparing and presenting a playful roundup of her gourmet street food, her recommendation before departing was to sip on the Sex Panther, the house infusion of roasted Thai chiles in tequila with a concluding splash of pineapple juice. A cocktail cruising on sultry, sexy and scandalous, this beverage proves you can have a close-to-home rendezvous with Bangkok without having to bring any sort of map.
Want to pay a visit to Mango Moon, too? Find Chef Moon and her pinch-perfect team at 4161 Main Street in Manayunk or online at www.mymangomoon.com. For reservations, call 215-487-1230. Also, be sure to click here to see our photo slideshow of the evening’s eats and sips.
