One of the most brutally honest reviews I’ve read in recent times came in December 2009’s Philadelphia Magazine and was bleakly titled, “Last Days of the French Chef.”
In the article, the writer Michael Callahan painted a cringe worthy portrait of Georges Perrier and his cultural downward spiral from the haute cuisine of Le Bec-Fin into the likes of casual “see and be seen” hot spots littering Philadelphia. In all the descriptive quotes pulled from Callahan’s piece, nothing stood taller than these words on how Georges is struggling to keep relevant, “. . . survive in a world he doesn’t comprehend, can’t comprehend, will never comprehend — the world of louche vagrants in tanning-booth complexions and designer jeans and untucked shirts and Juicy Couture sweats and matching iPhones, who now saunter into Le Bec like it’s the food court at the King of Prussia mall.”
So when I first ventured out to Georges’ on the Main Line in order to indulge in the “Haras de Pirque (vineyard) of Chile Wine Dinner,” I couldn’t help but feel Perrier placed himself into the proverbial bee hive of everything he flips his nose at.
Going in, I felt completely out of my element. Alone and anxious. I’d been starry eyed and salivating for weeks over the listed pairings, and I was now at the cusp of drowning my palette in Chilean wine (my latest crush in a never-ending affair with various regional wines). The personable, attentive staff quickly combined with the comfortable setting to wash away any trepidation I had walking into this event.
Arriving a few clock ticks prior to the start time of the tasting, I retreated to the bar for a quick libation and a feel for the scene. And that’s when I discovered the main bar did a wonderful no frills job of blowing me away.
The space was cozy and intimate, yet evocative of conversation and celebration. Dominant wood beams cascading toward the vaulted ceiling solidified the Arts and Crafts style, while the juxtaposition of modern furniture kept things contemporary and chic. If not for the anticipation of the wine pairing knocking at my skull, I could easily have rooted myself in this area for hours, my sleeves rolled up amongst the patrons, glass of wine in hand.
Proceeding upstairs for the event, I was lead into a casually formal area where I found myself among fellow wine enthusiasts and adventurers alike.
From my understanding, Georges’ puts on various special events and pairings monthly. If all are set up and executed like this, the “Haras of Chile Wine Dinner,” then they’ve properly succeeded in allowing the novice and expert to learn from each other while enjoying one another’s company. The space, laid out with large round tables, allowed attendees to mingle. I found myself engaged in both small talk and in-depth discussions at various points throughout the evening (the in-depth may have been a wee bit wine induced).
While I was buried knee deep in conversation and snapping jealousy inducing foodie iphone pics, a few key entrees and wines combined to suture my mouth shut and savor their every moment. The first round consisted of Mackerel Escabeche paired with an ’10 Haras Sauvignon Blanc. I shocked by the selection of this stubborn little fish and its ability to be so mildly integrated with a kiss of Chilean flavor from the tortilla, peppers, and tomato. I truly appreciated this curve ball of a choice.
Rounding out the five-course prix fixe menu, the Trojan Horse of the evening proved to be the dessert. What could have been a subtle send off for a bunch of wine impaired patrons, proved to be the one-two punch of the evening.
Titled Chocolate Decadence Cake, this proved to be far greater than that generic description. If the chef opted to name it Chocolate-gasm or Decadent Descent into Food Coma, not a single individual at my table would have disagreed. In keeping with the, “We break the rules because we know how to” theme that Georges’ was bringing, the pouring of an ’07 Haras Elegance Cabernet Sauvignon put a shotgun to my senses. Any tepid and safe chef would have opted to send you on your way with a Foo Foo petite glass of champagne and a pinkies up toast, but not here. A big bold glass of CabSav was poured and downed with every rich bite.
So my evening came and went, and my perceptions were smashed. In a part of town where Georges Perrier could have potentially found himself lost, he’s proven his diversity while maintaining the standards only he could command. He’s brought out clientele that has been yearning for an honest place to retreat. A place where 10’ tall Buddha statues and various gimmicks are traded for honest and hard-working service, an innovative and approachable menu, and an atmosphere that isn’t built but born.
Perrier hasn’t proven anything revolutionary with Georges’ on the Main Line, but instead he’s accomplished something greater – he’s adapted the spirit and heart of Le Bec-Fin, without dilution, in a strategic fashion. As culinary demands change, and required attire for a big night out diminishes, Georges’ on the Main Line successfully flips its nose at all other establishments, and Georges Perrier shows exactly why he’s the culinary poet laureate of our times.
To view more scenes from the evening’s affair, click here.
