Sometimes, as in the case of 333 Belrose in Radnor, the address says it all. With other situations, such as Malvern’s Flying Pig Saloon, cute and catchy works well.
Occasionally though, the name doesn’t translate into the actual theme. Cases in Point: Floret (Radnor) & Maia (Villanova) – both are now closed. Pretty names for sure, but how did the names correlate to the restaurants?
Not only does Chef Clark Gilbert’s Gemelli roll resonantly off the tongue, but it is a lovely verbal ode to his thirteen year-old twins. Gemelli literally means twins in Italian. Chef Clark has a daughter Riley and son Dylan (both Gemini’s, naturally). The name also classically categorizes Gilbert’s European focus which is quite evident on the Franco side, a bit lighter in Italian offerings.
Chef Clark’s May arrival along Manayunk’s Main Street signals more than a business investment for this well-traveled local chef. Gemelli lays down a solid new foundation for a man whom a few persnickety journalists have considered a perpetual wanderer. Gilbert has averaged a restaurant gig every two years – including stopovers at The Four Seasons, Restaurant Taquet, Avalon and others. One critical and influential reviewer continually labels Gilbert a “journeyman” chef, which, in all honesty, is grating to this highly seasoned professional.
“He tries to make me sound as if I’m peripatetic, like I move around all the time,” Clark told me during a recent visit to his Manayunk restaurant. “Two years in a kitchen? That’s called average in this business.”
Regardless of the past movements he has made, Clark Gilbert has appeared to have settled down in Gemelli, twice to be exact. The first time was at his very popular Narberth neighborhood BYOB, which opened in 2009. Realizing that 40-seats and the lack of a liquor license was limiting, the chef took his twins act across the river. Manayunk has been a transformative experience, to say the least. “I love the urban feel here, the city energy.”
Now Chef Clark has three levels to play in, each a soothing and moody brick red and coffee brown contemporary space. The first floor has a hip bistro feel, with the tidy open kitchen taking center stage. It is overseen by a Romanesque sculpture of twins – apropos Trompe L’oeil imagery representing Gemelli.
The sculpture resides along a wide brick wall and a series of steps which lead up to the dusky second floor mezzanine, where a gas fireplace provides a warming focal point within this romantic terrace. Up a few more steps and the bar beckons via cozy tables, three high-tops/stools overlooking Main Street (perfect people-watching perches), and a comfy but hi-tech bar. A huge overhead mirror transforms into a flat screen TV with the touch of a button by Pete, lead bartender here, who is all-pro.
The dining room is managed by another restaurant vet. David Howard has a long lineage working with Stephen Starr, Jose Garces, Steve Poses, Judy Wicks and others. See? Nothing wrong with being peripatetic, is there? It builds character, experience and a killer resume. Howard’s wine list of 70 Euro-bottles complements Clark’s impressive Franco-Italian fare well.
The menu is concise (10 apps/10 entrees) and shareable.
The Arancini ($12) of fried risotto balls blended with salt cod are croquette-ish and pleasing, even more so when forked across the splashy peppery/piquant duo of chorizo aioli and green olive tapenade. The venison tartare was nicely seasonal, its curried cockle and pistachio vinaigrette a tangy-briny surprise ($14).
For entrees, I sampled the pan seared scallops ($25) which were made autumnal and hearty with cauliflower puree, pine nuts and ice wine-soaked golden raisins. Meanwhile, the house specialty Cannelloni beheld a silken lobster & shrimp lining; nestled against it was fork-tender pork belly. A delicate chiffon of butternut squash ringed the tender meat like a fluffy tutu. The ingredients were studded with woodsy Nebrodini mushrooms and the entirety of the dish was mirrored in a lobster jus ($27). Finally, the evening’s special, Coq au Vin provided the classic marriage of French cuisine and Italian; the piping hot stew of poultry was served within a tender purse of ravioli.
Flourless chocolate cake and good, strong French press coffee completed an outstanding meal.
It was refreshing to witness the tasteful finesse and care-with-cookery being practiced so precisely along this fringe of the city, this close to the ‘burbs. As an example: the pork belly isn’t just simmered, it’s marinated for six hours in a red wine & mirapoix reduction, utterly elevating the intensity of flavors. The open kitchen and his techniques in place, the chef’s decision to go more main stream in Manayunk is a savvy one. Rebirth is in the air along the Schuylkill.
With key staff members, a liquor license and a city-cool vibe, he begins a new chapter in his purportedly roaming gnome career. Inside the aptly named Gemelli, Clark Gilbert has finally come home to stay – hopefully for a long time to come.
Find Gemelli on Main at 4161 Main Street in Manayunk, or online at gemellionmain.com. For reservations, call 215-487-1230.
