By Ken Alan
The pithy British GPS guide keeps insisting I head south along a rural route yet my instincts are pointing me northward, so I reach down and unplug him. Twenty-five miles to go and there is no need for that Londoner’s clipped and snitty intonations to obviously steer me in the wrong direction.
Indeed, if I had listened we never would have made it to Chef Ric Orlando’s informational and tasty presentation that began our Locavore Weekend at the spectacular Mohonk Mountain House. This beautiful resort is nestled between the famed Hudson Valley and the lofty Catskill Mountains outside scenic New Paltz, New York.
Hilly terrain rises out of nowhere and we suddenly find ourselves along a craggy climb up the Shawangunk Mountain, a misty realm seemingly plucked from the lyrics of a Led Zeppelin song, or maybe the Tolkien trilogy.
Driving through the charming town of New Paltz with its striking New England seaside architecture, a teeming & esoteric street scene replete with cafes & shops galore (definitely a Dish-able trip for the future), we spot the first sign indicating our destination: Mohonk Mountain House, 3 miles
Up a winding road we trek traversing curves and switchbacks to the top of the ridge, and then, set before us, is a castle of immense proportions, and immovable beauty.
“By Hagrid’s beard,” I intone dramatically, “It’s Hogwarts!”
Maybe not. Though visually, the Mohonk Mountain House is not too far off that cinematic mark: Flying buttresses spill over heavy eaves; gables, turrets, balustrades and battlements abound, this National Historic Landmark resort is perched majestically above pristine Lake Mohonk. The Victorian castle sprawls regally above thousands of unspoiled acres and hundreds of miles of inviting trails – a fairy tale enclave set within the real world.
It’s no small wonder why the resort has garnered award (2012 Conde Nast Traveler Gold List) after award (Travel + Leisure’s “World’s Best Hotels for Families”), and why ongoing generations and countless visitors have flocked to it for over 143 years since Quaker-born twins Albert & Alfred Smiley first came to the region in 1869. Their vision for a peaceful retreat was quickly followed by a relentless creation and expansion of the property through the ensuing years.
Now presided over by Nina Smiley (who lives up to her namesake – an ever-smiling and ingratiating sprite of a woman), she’s the wife of the property’s fourth generation family operator. Together, they provide an uncompromising stewardship toward to the House, its lands and its employees & many guests.
Literally, Mohonk Mountain House is a world unto its own – well-crafted rooms (266), many with balconies, a working fireplace and stunning views along the property’s seven stories. The lands contains a mountain house chalet featuring an ice skating rink, comprehensive fitness facilities, an indoor heated pool; the award-winning Spa at Mohonk Mountain House; conference facilities, skiing, snow shooting, snow tubing, lake swimming, and, of course, afternoon tea & cookies with three daily “American Plan” prepared meals all included in the cost of your stay.
About those meals: This is not mass-produced bland fare overcooked in chafers. The food at this House, overseen by Executive Chef Jim Palmeri and his able team is a true culinary representation of its overall reputation, and indigenous to its Valley surroundings.
Allison, this trip’s shutter bug extraordinaire and my Locavore partner for the weekend, and I quickly check-in, marveling at Victorian & Edwardian appointments all along the way. We’re just in time for the cooking demo with Chef Ric Orlando who is presenting his variation of Apple-Leek Soup, a delicious puree that he serves with Hudson Valley panache. The combination of the chef’s creation and the thickly-wooded room with its two roaring fireplaces fairly assails our nostrils with the scents of Empire apples, leeks, Spanish onion & wood smoke – Curl-up & Get Cozy-kind of aromatics.
Owner of New World Home Cooking Café (in Saugerties) and New World Bistro Bar (Albany), Chef Orlando gained prominence as a champion on the Food Network’s highly-rated show, “Chopped,” though his fame throughout the Hudson Valley had surged years before, thanks to a marked vocal dedication toward local ingredients & area purveyors and his overall philosophy of using clean food in his delectable modern dishes.
Though we are here to observe localized practices, Allison and I are armed with gifts from afar – fine bottles representing our region’s own Brandywine Valley Wine Trail. Bottles include those from Black Walnut Winery, Penns Woods Winery and Kreutz Creek Vineyards – liquid bliss from Southeastern Pennsylvania in which to impart to our guests throughout the weekend. Chef Orlando gratefully accepts our offering of chardonnay, and we do the same with his creamy and aromatic soup.
Later, as we head toward the abundant lunch buffet in the main dining room, we happen upon Ric and his lovely and charismatic wife Liz, who are relaxing in plump chairs near one of the hotel’s gazillion fireplaces. They thank us for the wine and for attending in general, niceties which are followed up by an invitation to join them (and several other weekend hosts) at dinnertime. Jackpot!
While at lunch (I go vegetarian with Quinoa with black beans and a delicious roast vegetable polenta), we clink our water glasses together in anticipation of tonight’s dinner, feeling like lucky kids who get to sit at “The Grownup Table.”
At 2 pm, we enjoy our first tastes of what will become a positively wine-soaked day, thanks to the bottled delights of Whitecliff Vineyard. We are treated to the viniferous talents of Michael and Yancey Stanforth-Migliore, who operate their top-rated New York State winery. With laser pointer in hand, Michael shows us slides of the wine-making process, an illustration of Hudson Valley wines and their development through the years, and an image that spotlights their Riesling which won its category in 2009 at the esteemed San Francisco International Wine Competition.
Fascinating, yes, though I won’t deny our wanting the pouring to commence: A steely yet clean chardonnay, that tart, medium-dry & sweetly tinged Riesling; the balance and acidity of Pinot Noir, the earthy insouciance of their Gamay Noir, all soon arrives before us.
Swirl.
Sniff.
Glug!
We quickly depart at 3 pm and make our way to the scheduled “Local Flavor” Expo, a bit saddened at being cut-off after such an enjoyable tasting. After all, what could be better than all that great wine?
How about incredible beers, tempting chocolates, scrumptious ice cream and more?!
The Expo features local artisans and purveyors. These include rich truffles from Lucky Chocolates of Saugerties, dreamy Jane’s chocolate ice cream from Kingston, yummy chocolate chip cookies courtesy of Vegan O’Brien Baking Company – yes, vegan cookies. Also, there’s grained goodness poured by Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery, their line of top-shelf whiskeys having incurred recent national acclaim, and, Keegan Ales out of Kingston. If Victory Brewing Company is the Brandywine Valley’s wunderkind of craft beers & ales, then Keegan is its NY State fledgling counterpart.
It’s now four o’clock, tea time. With our bellies sloshing, we decide we need to walk. Really, we NEED to walk. The day is brisk but splendid. We give ourselves a grand tour.
Trails beckon and we climb, finding secret gardens. A landscaped maze (‘Holy “The Shining” Allison!’) overlooks railed parapets and unparalleled vistas. The sound of classic rock resounds around the valley; it is coming from the ice rink where pink-cheeked children and loving couples cavort with colorful scarves trailing behind in the winter breeze.
Back inside we explore like kids, finding alcoves hiding bookshelves replete with old tomes and literary masterpieces. There are nooks to nestle in, crannies in which to get cozy, parlors, porches and secret stairways. A billiards room and a gift shop. The Carriage Lounge (“Hmm, that must be the bar.”). We file this bit of important information away for later…
Some relaxation and freshening-up ensues and then we are off to dinner.
Continue reading about Dish Trip’s Ken’s delicious journey to Mohonk Mountain House with Part Two, to debut tomorrow, Tuesday, March 6. Click HERE to view scenes from Dish Trip’s entire Mohonk Mountain House visit, courtesy of Allison Benford, Bonsai Doll Fern Photography.
The Brandywine Valley Wine Trail is made up of seven beautiful estate vineyards and wineries in Chester County, PA, including Black Walnut Winery, Chaddsford Winery, Kreutz Creek Vineyards, Paradocx Vineyard, Patone Cellars, Penns Woods Winery, and Twin Brook Winery. Learn more about the trail by visiting bvwinetrail.com.
