Craig Laban Reviews Chestnut Hill’s Heirloom

No matter what level of talent a chef possesses or how many awards they hang on their kitchen walls, a certain amount of hair must stand up on their backs when they realize Craig LaBan, famous Philadelphia food critic, is reviewing the dishes they prepare.

Chef Al Paris, of Heirloom in Chestnut Hill, had a chance to cook for the man, the myth, the legend recently and LaBan whipped up a Two Bell review in return. According to the signature rating system, Two Bells means very good – interesting with above average food. Although Laban was critical of some aspects, like the tomato and mozzarella salad served out of season, the taste of that dish, along with originals, French snails, fresh fried doughnuts, and a Carolina chop salad, were enough to distract from the concern.

Laban was happy to see Paris in the midst of an Heirloom contest, that requests pre-1950 recipe entrees for possible inclusion on his early-summer menu. “It proves his heart is in the right place,” Laban mentions since the name of the restaurant, Heirloom, is a term hinting at an antique passed down from generation to generation.

Town Dish had faith in this farm-to-table BYOB from the start and we’re happy to see the success. However, don’t just take Laban’s word for it. Get over to the Top of the Hill Plaza and taste for yourself!

Photo credited to Heirloom.