The term “gastropub” gets thrown around a lot by restaurateurs these days. It’s easy enough to add a couple hearty sandwiches and a bunch of craft beers to a menu and then, ostensibly, you can call your place a gastropub.
The Philly suburbs has its share of such venues; many are quite good, yet, in truth, very few area eateries can be classified as authentically typifying this particular genre — the proper juxtaposition between elevation in the kitchen and nuanced perfection behind the bar.
TJ’s Restaurant & Drinkery (Paoli) comes close; Teresa’s Next Door (Wayne) and Downingtown’s Station Taproom are also laudable. Under the twin shadows of Limerick’s nuclear power plant, Craft Ale House has achieved its own respectable cult of gastronomy.
Meanwhile, along Pottstown Pike (Route 100) in rural northern Chester County, veteran chef/caterer Creig Ballentine has recently opened Crofts’ Tavern. This rustic roadhouse located just south of Route 23 and a few miles below Pottstown, has the stagecoach stop ambiance of a cheery inn circa the early 19th century – a deceptively effective subterfuge.
The restaurant’s original section, the main dining room, was actually built in 1925. The rest of the structure followed almost fifty years later, with subsequent renovations reflecting a much earlier period in time. Hand-hewn beams are from an old barn in Berks County. Polished floor planks were harvested from a mill in Lancaster. The interior and exterior’s stone façade, deep wood burning fireplaces and the structure’s sturdy skeletal timbers bespeak of antiquity — a warm and welcoming enclave typifying the country heart of Chester County.
Since the seventies, the spot has operated in varying forms as a fine dining restaurant. In recent years the restaurant sputtered; the previous owners had tried too hard to be haute, with disappointing results. After the tavern stagnated for an extended period, Creig Ballentine, a veteran chef and area caterer swooped in, seeking to rescue this promising establishment.
First, he cleaned it from top to bottom. (“You wouldn’t believe how dirty it was in here.”) Next, Creig created openings in the stone walls separating the bar, the dining room and the enclosed (private party area) porch, creating airier and more sensible spatial dynamics.
Now Ballentine has made it his mission to introduce Crofts’ Tavern as a legitimate gastropub. This concept begins with the use of eighty-seven locally-sourced purveyors — most are within a 50 mile radius — who provide the bulk of his kitchen’s stock. For example, his impressive array of artisan cheeses are from such notable distributors as September Farms (Honeybrook), Amazing Acres (Elverson), and Chester Springs famed Birchrun Hills Farm.
Apples are brought in from Highland Orchards (West Chester). The trout is delivered fresh from Limestone Springs (Lancaster). Ice cream is handmade by Chester Springs Creamery.
Most of the foodstuff is local except for the meat. Creig is lucky enough to have a relationship with beef god Pat Lafrieda from northern New Jersey — THE Pat Lafrieda — the distributor who supplies only a fortunate few of this region’s top restaurants with simply the best available cuts.
It all adds up to great chef’s play for Richard DeStefano who, prior to taking to the stoves at Crofts’ Tavern, was employed with the Innkeeper’s Kitchen at Dilworthtown.
What makes the fare so authentically gastro?
The crispy duck confit appetizer for one — melting off the bone, redolent of sherry soaked sun dried cherries, spiced hazelnuts and aged sherry vinaigrette ($14.50) — a perfect repast during the cooler months to come. Victory pilsner wings are house-brined and served “old school” (whole wings). Yards beer battered fried cheese curds are yet another well-prepared representation.
A particular day’s slider [special] of three juicy Peidmontese mini-burgers ($12) are hormone-free, grass fed wonders on a brioche bun — the same blend of burger that super chef Marc Vetri offers to his own patrons at Alla Spina restaurant in Philly.
Gastronomics continue with classic bar fare like Buttermilk fried chicken & sausage gravy ($10), hearty Shepherd’s Pie ($14); drunken mussels, bacon & eggs “breakfast all the time,” a grand meat & cheese platter (a shareable eighteen dollar item), and an outstanding aged Angus rib eye steak for $24. All desserts, like crème brulee and a tasty apple tart are made in-house.
The bar area, with burnished wooden floor boards, hefty beams crossing a high peaked ceiling, a mammoth fireplace and an overall steeplechase country coziness is, to my mind, one of the best spaces in which to drink in this region. All that’s missing is the baying of hounds on a fox hunt. If you listen hard enough from a table on the outdoor deck, you may indeed hear their plaintive howls coming from the nearby equine territory along Flowing Springs Road behind the tavern.
The back bar is a real bar — a ruddy-wooded beauty from Ireland and a well-crafted relic from the year 1922, nestled naturally along Crofts’ rear wall. Across it runs a vast assortment of victuals, ranging from the usual drink suspects, top shelf bottles and several Pennsylvania brands including Boyd & Blair Potato vodka, Penn 1681 vodka, and locally-distilled Bluecoat gin.
For wine, Creig’s list includes 25 international red and white offerings; intriguing varietels like Picos Tempranillo from Spain, and a Pepperwood Grove Viognier out of California, each one costing a mere twenty-seven dollars. With beer, Pennsylvania draughts such as Sly Fox, Yards, Victory & Troegs make ongoing tap appearances.
If service is the other half of the potential success equation, then Ballentine has this aspect covered also.
Manager Chris Ferris comes from The Cheesecake Factory and grew up in the business, thanks to parents who owned restaurants for decades. Other veterans abound, including staff members Brian Narwitch (who also tends at Ron’s Original Bar & Grill), Scott Malpass (a long-time former bartending favorite from the Eagle Tavern), and Lynn Rowan (The Office Bar & Grill).
Crofts’ Tavern is open for dinner seven nights a week. Sunday a la carte brunch is served from 11 a.m.–3 p.m., and happy hour runs from 4:30–6:30 p.m., Monday through Friday. There’s live entertainment every Wednesday (7:30–10:30 p.m.) and Saturday (8:30 p.m.–12:30 a.m.).
To truly gastro-size his tavern, Creig is seeking to expand his tap system. He plans to add cask-conditioned and hand pump beers, as well as bolster his bottled brews by providing more exotic types of ales and lagers. Expect “Tap Takeovers” by local craft brewers to be a part of the drinking scene there soon.
It all comes down to commitment. For someone with decades of restaurant experience and years working for some of the nation’s top dining establishments — including Le Bec-Fin and NYC’s Le Bernadin — Creig Ballentine is on the right track here in northern Chester County by offering diners what we have wanted for years: A gastropub.
Make that a truly authentic gastropub.
Photographs credited to Nina Lea Photography.
