Navigating the murky waters of sustainable seafood is by no means simple, but Swarthmore Co-op’s Meat and Seafood Manager, Mike Ryan, is making it easy for customers to enjoy a meal that respects our planet and seas.According the the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program, nearly 85% of the world’s fisheries are either fished at capacity or overfished. Their program encourages consumers and businesses to purchase seafood that is farmed or fished in ways that won’t harm the planet. They base their criteria on where the fish came from, what method was used to catch it, the age of the fish, status of wild populations, and bycatch (wasted catch of other species of fish and impact on natural habitat).
Each week, the Co-op carries 15-18 varieties of seafood and everything from their crabs to shad, oysters to octopus meet the Monterey Bay Seafood seal of approval. Mike dedicates 30 minutes a day to finding the best sources for sustainable seafood by calling purveyors, chefs and fellow fishmongers. Mike uses three local vendors for all of his fish needs: River & Glen out of Bucks County, PNG of Trenton, and the biggest seafood purveyor in the Philadelphia Region, Samuels and Son Seafood.
“I have the responsibility of looking into every company that we buy from and saying ‘do you do things right?” explained Ryan. “That’s why the Tilapia filets we have are from South America, because the producers in America simply don’t take enough concern for the local environment.”
Mike may have a large list of fish he won’t carry out of environmental principle, but he always carries a number of alternatives. He looks for fish that fit every taste and texture profile and always offers a firm fish, flaky fish, an oily fish and a whole fish. His customers appear to be satisfied with his selections, since they constantly barrage Mike with samples or photos of their successful dinners.
Just like traditional farming, there’s a seasonality to seafood. You wouldn’t expect to find locally-grown tomatoes in the winter and you shouldn’t expect Alaskan Salmon either. According to Mike, the summer is the best season to catch the best fish coming out of both coasts. Wild Alaskan Salmon and Halibut season is just starting. This time of year, the East Coast waters are filled with striper, shad, striped bass, black bass and fluke.
A trip to the Co-op’s seafood counter is more than a place to pick up sustainably-harvested fish, it’s also a place to learn from a man whose mentor is one of the area’s renowned fish experts, Terrance Fury. Mike began his cooking career in 1996 in London and then spent years as a sous chef at Philadelphia’s own Ritz Carlton and Fork. Mike came to the Co-op in August 2010 with intentions of making it one of the best markets in the county. “I wanted to create something I could stand behind. If I wanted just a seafood job, I’d would just go work somewhere else,” said Ryan.
The most common question Mike receives is a way to get kids to eat fish. Mike’s six-year-old son, Owen, won’t touch salmon, but he loves mild-tasting fish like halibut or the flaky, lowfat fluke. Owen loves to be the sous chef assisting his dad with making homemade bread crumbs. Mike coats the fluke in bread crumbs, frying for a few minutes in oil and butter with a touch of salt.
Many customers are hooked on the idea of trying a different fish, but are a little insecure about cooking something new. Mike’s favorite part of the job is forming relationships with his customers and dishing out fish tips. “Giving them the opportunity to cook something they’ve never cooked before is very gratifying. I kind of help people find satisfaction in something they were scared of,” said Mike.
To learn more about sustainable seafood, visit Monterey Bay’s Seafood Watch Program, Marine Stewardship Council or the friendly faces behind the seafood counter at the Swarthmore Co-op. The Swarthmore Co-op is located at 341 Dartmouth Road and is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. on Sunday.
Mike was kind enough to give us one of his easy and favorite recipes from his selection.
Mackerel Escabeche
- 1 cup olive oil
- 1 small red onion
- 1 shallot
- 2 cloves of garlic
- 1 cup diced tomatoes
- basil
- ¾ c champagne vinegar
In a large warm skillet, pour in olive oil, sweat one small-diced red onion, one shallot, and two cloves of minced garlic.
Add one diced head of fennel, as well as one jalapeño pepper with seeds removed.
Add 1 cup of chopped tomatoes and a small handful of chopped basil.
When the vegetables are nearly soft, increase the heat while adding 3/4 cup of good quality champagne vinegar (though we used red), bringing just to a boil.
Have the mackerel fillets in a single layer in warm baking dish and cover with the hot oil/vinegar and vegetables. Wrap in plastic and let rest 10 minutes.
To determine doneness, gently lift a fillet from the marinade (it should flake when fully cooked). Continue heating in a low oven if necessary.
