There’s something really cool about an executive chef who started by washing dishes at 12 years old, became enamored with working with food and proceeded to cook his way to the top. Something really cool…and delicious.
Riverstone Café Executive Chef David Wassel—who oversees the kitchen that’s shared with Winner’s Circle Sports Grille—is quiet and modest in person, but a force to be reckoned with in the kitchen. Prior to coming to Riverstone in 2011, Chef David was sous chef at Majolica in Phoenixville. Those impressive credentials translate to delights on dishes.
I sampled two items during our chat: one from the menu, butternut squash ravioli with crispy leeks and spiced apple broth, and one Chef David whipped up from what he saw in the pantry, seared scallops with pomegranate seeds and fennel. Both showcase his skill and his creativity.
I’m partial to all things butternut squash, so I was delighted to taste that item from his tapas menu. The spiced apple broth was as delicious as a mulled cider and perfect for fall-into-holiday-season noshing. The ravioli were tender outside and in, and had just a touch of sweetness to complement the creamy butternut filling. The lightly fried leeks were nice and crispy and offered a textural and savory bite to the dish. Choose this for robust flavors on the small-plate menu.
The next dish blew me away because he conceived of it and whipped it up in less than 10 minutes, including an eye-popping presentation. Scallops are notoriously hard to cook correctly, but Chef David nailed it: they were fork-tender.
The scallops were nestled atop an apple balsamic sauce that, along with the bold and flavorful micro basil, lent a slightly Asian flavor to the dish. Crunchy and sweet-tart pomegranate and mild and licorice-y fennel did their delicious part to dress the simple scallops. This light and fresh dish may show up as a special now and again.
“That’s how we come up with a lot of our specials,” Chef Dave added. “We challenge each other in the kitchen to see who can come up with something new from what’s in the pantry.”
By “we” he means the 15 kitchen staffers he supervises including three sous chefs, Jason Hernandez, Caleb Gilder and Gaetano Mazza, and other line cooks. That busy and creative bunch keep plates full at both Riverstone and Winner’s Circle, including two banquet rooms.
“Our banquet rooms are pretty much booked out until January, and some days we flip the Winner’s Circle banquet room three times in one day,” he said. “Our kitchen is non-stop busy with two very different menus, and that’s what makes it fun. It’s controlled chaos.”
Winner’s Circle is known for its hearty bar food: craft burgers, sandwiches, pizza, wings and more with great Happy Hour and sporting event specials. It’s not just a local sports bar, either. If a game is on, somewhere, it’s no doubt being aired on one of the many big-screens around the room.
Riverstone is more eclectic and offers Chef Dave and his crew a bit more flexibility to branch out. Specials change frequently, as does the menu to reflect the seasons. And although there are daily Happy Hour specials, most notably Buck a Shuck Wednesdays, it’s what’s changed behind the scenes that’s the most special.
“Since I’ve been here, we’ve started making everything from scratch: marinades, dressings, sauces, you name it,” Chef Dave said. “I’ve worked with our line cooks to help educate them. Every one of them can break a whole salmon down in about 10 minutes now. The same goes for poultry and meats. It does make a difference.”
Chef Dave’s kitchen smokes salmon and brisket, focuses on fresh in-season vegetables and seasonal flavors, and has perfected presentation for a tasty and eye-catching experience. But what he calls “his baby” is the oyster bar, sourced from three purveyors he hand-selected so he can dish out between nine and 15 different types of oysters from key regions. It’s the biggest selection available locally.
It’s clear Chef Dave has the stuff and brings it to his bustling kitchen. So, what does a chef who feeds patrons at two restaurants like to cook at home? Why comfort foods, of course.
“I love to make braised chicken thighs,” he explained. “I sear them, then into the oven for a couple of hours in homemade stock with roasted vegetables. Perfection.”
Taste some of Chef Dave’s perfection at Riverstone Café and Winner’s Circle Sports Grille, located next to each other at 143 W. Lincoln Highway in Exton. First timer? Set your GPS for 150 N. Pottstown Pike, Exton, Pa. 19341 (near the Route 30/Route 100 intersection in Whiteland Towne Center).
