“Get the salad.”
Those were the words spoken by my date on February 13 after I asked what her theoretical Citron & Rose review would include. She might have disclosed more detail if not so intently fixed on picking her next best bite from a plate of frisee greens, savory smoked duck, poached egg, and duck fat potatoes. Truth be told, she was hitting the nail very close to it’s head with her simplistic statement. The Salad Lyonnaise was an exemplary first course item, light and reviving with its fresh, crisp greens then sensationally savory from each bite of perfectly salted duck, all dripping with rich yolk. We felt spoiled at the opportunity to enjoy such a dish and showed our utter appreciation by wiping the plate clean.
Mushroom knish was another starter at the mercy of our taste buds that evening. The delicious ball of stuffed dough was delicately plated with tsimmes and a house-made carrot mustard, both of which paired nicely with the warm mushroom filling. A big time mustard fan, I couldn’t get enough of their creamy concoction and used tiny bits of the knish’s flaky exterior to texturize each scoop of the carrot-based condiment that remained on our plate.
The meal’s impressive beginning was even more enjoyable thanks to our luscious cocktails whipped up using signature Citron & Rose recipes. My date opted for the highly popular Cosmonaut concocted with vodka, pomegranate and beet sugar while I attempted to keep the snowy winter evening a bit warmer with my Reb Roy, Citron’s twist on the classic Rob Roy. Made with Knob Creek bourbon, barrel-aged Manischewitz, drambuie, and bitters, the strong kick in each sip dare not compete with the delicious bites that followed in my entree.
Our server was quick to recommend the Veal Schnitzel after we both inquired what were a few of his favorites. The Barley Risotto sounded mighty tempting and almost made the cut but I tend to order items that don’t have a chance of ever being personally prepared in my kitchen. That in no way means I can create cuisine at home that upholds to Chef Solomonov’s and Chef Sichel’s caliber, just that I have never and will never make schnitzel for myself or any future dinner guests. This notion was only further validated after taking my first bite into the glorified cutlet. A personal schnitzel attempt would end in severe depression if comparing my dish to that from Citron & Rose. As if the celery root-apple puree, lemon-gherkin marmalade, and kale weren’t satisfying enough in their own cute, meat-accenting way, the fried patties and their warm, melt-in-your-mouth interior could summon tears of foodie joy.
My date chose the Crispy Salmon as her second course and relished in the fresh seafood paired with roasted eggplant, cucumber, and wild mushrooms. It was a delightful dish, prepared without flaw, and the salmon’s comforting sides were quite suitable for the night’s white blanket laying preciously upon the streets outside. In an effort to save room for dessert and coffee, which I immediately craved after picking up on a wonderful scent drifting throughout the restaurant, we held back our above average appetites and threw in the towel—or napkin, if you will.
Although I was keen to observe the customer service since entering Citron and Rose, this was a perfect time to really analyze the machine and see how well-oiled it was. Our server, as previously indicated, was spot on from square one and the remaining personnel appeared to be top notch as well. One gentleman swiftly replaced my dropped knife before I could even begin to bend down and retrieve it, another checked in with our table frequently, not in an overbearing way, but simply to casually chat and ensure our satisfaction. There was never a dull moment for these employees and it showed in their actions as they bounced from the dining area to the bar, tended to a private party, and everything in between. The kitchen crew was just as remarkably fluent, sustaining concentration in their open-concept quarters.
Admiring the exceptional crew was less of my concern once the Cinnamon Babka and Red Wine Sorbet graced our table, along with a large cup of hot coffee. It was the ultimate night cap. Warm and rich dough encapsulated a soft and moist cinnamon filling, and the cool sorbet followed each luxurious bite until there were no more to take. I took a few more sips of coffee and we showered everyone deserving with compliments before casting our satiated bodies into the nipping weather. There could have been rain, sleet, or ninja stars falling from the sky when we exited the restaurant. None of it, in competition with reminiscing about our fantastic meal, would have won my attention.
Find Citron and Rose at 370 Montgomery Avenue, Merion, PA 19066. They are open for dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Learn more at Citron and Rose, like them on Facebook and follow them on Twitter @citronandrose.
