Meals On Wheels Delaware is a nonprofit organization working with five meal-providing agencies and thousands of volunteers from corporations and civic, religious and community groups. Together, the program provides and delivers meals every day to almost 4,000 homebound seniors. On Sunday, April 21, from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m., the 16th annual Meals with the Masters Celebrity Brunch will unfold at Hercules Plaza in Wilmington, DE. One of the local chefs presenting at the brunch is Bucks County native Matthew Ridgway, chef and owner of PorcSalt, a charcuterie.
I spoke with Chef Ridgway to get all the details about PorcSalt; The Pass, which will open soon in Rosemont, New Jersey; and, of course, what he will be presenting at the brunch.
How did you get your culinary start? What’s your background?
Matthew Ridgway: I grew up in Bucks County on two acres of gardens. From a young age, my Mom taught me how to forage for my own food, to can, to use what came from our own land. By the time I was in 6th grade, my chore was to prepare dinner for the family every night. I started watching Julia Child and reading cookbooks. After high school, my brother suggested that I go to culinary school because he thought I should do something that I loved. I attended Johnson and Wales and then got a Business Degree in Hospitality Management from Widener University.
After spending some time in Sonoma, I came back to Philadelphia. I knew I wanted to work at The Four Seasons, so I went to an interview and agreed to take on any job. I started in the cafeteria there. Eventually, I moved into the position of saucier at The Fountain, under Jean-Marie Lacroix. When he left the Four Seasons to open Lacroix in the Rittenhouse, I went with him and became the chef de cuisine. After Lacroix, I spent time in Atlanta, New York and Paris. I worked non-stop from the time I was 17 until I was 33 with no breaks or vacations and burned out. So I came home to Bucks County.
You opened PorcSalt in 2010. Why charcuterie?
MR: After I came home, I approached a friend who sources high quality fish using sustainable methods. I told him I needed a break and that I would sweep his floors. Over time, we collaborated on making charcuterie, pates and terrines. Having trained under a French chef and always enjoying the structure and discipline of French cuisine, it wasn’t a huge leap for me. I was trained to always use the whole animal and how to break it down properly. I often used offal as well. It is important to me to use local, sustainable ingredients. You can find the best quality ingredients in your own backyard.
What’s next? Tell me about your new project, The Pass.
MR: I decided it was time to open a restaurant that was a place I would like to dine. I don’t like long drawn out meals and fuss. I don’t need white table cloths or a lot of choices. I just want Michelin quality, delicious dishes served in an unpretentious, lively setting. I searched for a while until I found the perfect location, an old farmhouse at the corners of Routes 519 and 609 in Rosemont, NJ, just 5 miles over the bridge from New Hope, PA. My concept is based on the French Routier style restaurants, literally a place you pass by on your travels and can stop for a quick meal—hence the name, The Pass.
The charcuterie operations moved to The Pass in February. You can stop by during the day to pick up what you need. We plan to open the restaurant in the evenings sometime in late April/early May. We’ll still be selling our charcuterie products at local farmer’s markets.
How did you get involved with Meals on Wheels Delaware?
MR: I’ve been friends with Daniel Stern from R2L for a long time and he’s been a huge supporter of PorcSalt. He also has been a huge supporter of Meals on Wheels Delaware. It makes sense to want to provide quality food to homebound seniors and if I can help with fundraising, it’s a no-brainer. Daniel brought me into the Brunch last year. It was a very well run event so I was happy to participate again.
What are you presenting at the Celebrity Chef Brunch?
MR: One of our signature products at PorcSalt is our smoked red wine bacon [pictured above]. I’m going to take the smoked pork fat and small bits of the red wine bacon and make a brioche. I’m going to stuff it with a soft egg in the middle, so that when you bite into it, the egg will run. It will be like a meal in your hand.
Sound tempting? Matthew Ridgway is just one of many chefs from the United States and beyond scheduled to share their culinary creations for charity at the brunch. You can get more information and purchase tickets for this delicious and worthy event by visiting the Meals on Wheels Delaware website.
- Photo: PorcSalt