Hello, Dish Trip fans! As you already know, traveling in the name of food is what we do, and our most recent adventure placed us safely in New York City amidst a snow storm with plenty of sips and snacks to swoon over. While New Englanders were told to prepare for the worst, we were fortunate to have invitations to a James Beard Foundation Dinner unfolding Friday, February 8. Blizzard or no blizzard, this dream of a New York food trip had to happen. Warnings began flowing in by text, phone call and email, even as we stood on the train platform in Exton, Pennsylvania waiting patiently for Amtrak. Traveling by car would have been risky, since a slushy mess was already falling in the Philadelphia area. Several flights to New York were rescheduled or postponed the night before in anticipation of the treacherous weather. After only a few moments on the platform, we were resting comfortably in spacious Amtrak seating, and feeling toasty enough to shed our winter wear. The excitement of safe travel to our ultimate food destination had us chit-chatting like giddy girls, so much that it seemed like only a few turbulent-free minutes passed before we were pulling into Penn Station. After quick assistance from an Amtrak employee while exiting the train, we were cast into a snowy New York City wonderland.
The Stops & Stories:
Stop 1: Hyatt 48 Lex
517 Lexington Ave, New York 48lex.hyatt.com Modern design mingled with classic charm at this trendy Midtown hotel where an intimate lobby greeted guests throughout the snowy night. While their contemporary art pieces were interesting, it was unmistakable cocktail chatter and enticing scents that drew us closer to the far side of the lobby where the hotel’s restaurant hid behind a long black curtain. We had full intent of exploring the Lexington Brass before scurrying off to the James Beard Dinner, in addition to a cheese and wine hour which began on the second floor lounge at 5 p.m., but first our room deserved a little admiring. Floor to ceiling windows offered sweeping, frosty Manhattan views coupled with ironically appropriate food art upon the sitting room walls. As cozy as it was, we had a foodie adventure to partake in.
Stop 2: Lexington Brass
517 Lexington Ave, New York emmgrp.com Lexington Brass manifested charming details. A mosaic tiled floor ran into the base of lengthy windows, which offered a seamless view of snow-covered New York streets. Guests stirred their craft cocktails and clinked their pint glasses through the dimly lit space bedecked with vintage books, crisp bistro tables, black and white photos, and dark wooden shades. Suddenly, we were very eager to explore beyond the 1950’s decor. For us, the Lavender Bees Knees laden with Bombay Sapphire Gin, Lemon Juice and Lavender Honey was a must try. The hint of honey commanded our attention with each sip, while stirring up memories of homemade tea fresh from the kettle. Also on our drinking agenda was the Lexington Sour, a house specialty comprised of Woodford Reserve Bourbon, Maple Bitters, Fresh Lemon and Honey. It had just the playful bite we were in search of. After sipping one round, we indulged in Maple Chipotle Pork Buns. These delightful snacks were drizzled with a house-made sauce then stacked with pickled vegetables and cilantro. If a decadent James Beard Dinner didn’t lie in our future another round would have certainly been enjoyed.
Stop 3: James Beard House
167 West 12th Street, New York jamesbeard.org
If it weren’t for our adventurous souls and empty stomachs, there’s a good chance we would have explored many more city streets before wandering into the James Beard House. Our first impression was the narrow foyer, fit only for aged wooden steps with a thick banister and a petite coat closet, but we would soon find there were plenty more house-like characteristics to explore. The bathroom held only one person at a time and resembled a style that was long forgotten in our day and age with floor to ceiling, and sliding closet doors that doubled as mirrors. There were obvious renovations done to accommodate passionate food guests, but touches of Beard’s past still existed peacefully throughout the space, such as the tiled shower wall serving as a backsplash in an upstairs server station. Several guests were seated in what was Beard’s extensive library and they had no choice but to include the master as a guest that evening in the form of his large portrait hanging watchfully above a fireplace. It was certain the venue’s unique elements played a crucial part in our whimsical dining experience, but it was the Chester County powerhouses who made our evening truly memorable.
Chef Patrick Feury from the Main Line eatery, Nectar, and his culinary crew were in the James Beard spotlight on Friday, February 8, but a few beams were also illuminating Bill Covaleski from Victory Brewing Company as the guest sommelier/brewer. Another honoring ray of light fell upon Chester County’s cream of the fresh crop, making sure Birchrun Hills Farm, Yellow Springs Farm and Doe Run Farm were given credit where credit was due. After all, it was the Birchrun Hills Farm Blue Cheese-Spinach Dumplings and Yellow Springs Farm Goat Cheese Gougères that caused the most chatter during cocktail hour. The gougères needed just a bit of pressure before releasing their rich and creamy interior to dance with your taste buds. If only the savory flavors need not be swallowed so the pleasant dance could linger a bit longer. With no trouble following such an act, the dumpling offered a cozy pairing between its blue cheese and spinach filling. One delicate and buttery bite warmed the body while washing down delightfully with J. Maki Winery’s Blanc de Blancs NV. Spice-Cured Foie Gras and Yellowtail Tartare with Soy, Asparagus, and Rice rounded out the hors d’oeuvre list on an impressive note. Guests were quick to pair many of the items with Victory’s Headwaters Pale Ale, raving about the aromatic kick the golden ale packed. Once seated we recognized our table was chock full of the evening’s superstars, from Birchrun’s Susan Miller and her son Randy to Yellow Springs’ husband-wife duo, Catherine and Al Renzi, plus Bill Covaleski. There was a sense of Chester County camaraderie as we awaited the first course, just a few quick steps away from the bustling kitchen where Chef Feury and his team were deep in detailed preparation. Every second of their talented work was appreciated, starting with the Spiced Skuna Bay Salmon with Osetra Caviar, Doe Run Farm Seven Sisters Curd, and Victory Brewing Company Prima Pils Beer-Dill Pancake. It paired perfectly with a glass of Braumeister Pils, letting the impeccably seasoned seafood speak first before mellowing its flavor out with grassy notes. The Mushroom Consommé with Doe Run Farm Country Goat Sausage and Black Trumpet Mushroom Dumplings followed our first course’s orders to uphold the meal’s impressive demeanor. Settled in a salty broth, the mini bangers were cooked to a perfect plump and burst with flavorful juices at each bite. The dumplings, not unlike the Moonglow Weizenbock, did wonders for the dish with a semi-sweet mushroom filling that balanced the sausage’s sturdy flavor. It’s safe to say the next two courses battled it out for a number one spot at Chef Patrick’s James Beard dinner but with both dishes offering individualistic perfection, one could not rank them unevenly. Many diners sang praises for the Crispy Striped Bass with Doe Run Butter-Black Winter Truffle Sauce, Victory Brewing Company Helios Ale-Pickled Carrots, and Radishes. When paired with the V-12 Belgian-style Ale, a mild sweetness was brought to life in the fish but kept in line by the carrots’ hint of sour and radishes’ earthy aftertaste. Feury’s farm-to-table focus reached a delicious peak in the form of Tea-Smoked Pineland Farms Beef Tenderloin and J. Maki Winery Pinot Noir-Marinated Pineland Farms Beef Short Ribs with Birchrun Hills Farm Equinox Potatoes, Turnip-Black Winter Truffle Gratin, Cipolline, and Parsley. The locally sourced ingredients couldn’t deliver anything less than fresh, mouthwatering flavors. Meat so tender, it was hard to accept as reality but the juices escaping from each perfectly seasoned bite were very real. A glass of J. Maki 2005 Pinot Noir and Victory’s most recent barrel-aged edition, Red Thunder, tagged along for the second to last course, calming the saltiness from our meat-filled chews. However, most calming of all was the Parsnip Cake with Doe Run Farm Dairy Ice Cream and Lingonberries paired with J. Maki’s Vidal Blanc Ice Wine. Even on a blizzardy night, we weren’t opposed to consuming dessert with the word “ice” in it. As the ultimate night cap, this ice wine wasn’t too sweet, wasn’t too filling and left us longing for more. Our Chester County pride was uncontrollably proclaimed when chatting with fellow New York diners after the meal. As if attending a James Beard Dinner wasn’t fulfilling enough, our foodie dream came true beyond our beliefs. To be able to call the top notch artisans, craftful brewer, creative chef and his culinary team our neighbors was a gratifying experience we’ll always remember.
Stop 4: DAVIDsTEA
275 Bleecker St, New York davidstea.com Although it wasn’t a planned part of the trip, when our cab driver placed us on Bleecker Street a bit earlier than expected Saturday morning we had no choice but to explore. A few steps was all it took before stumbling upon David’s Tea. Not a stranger to the premium tea retailer, we let our obsession run wild. The friendly, laid back staff said “sniff your hearts out!” From birthday cake to strawberry rhubarb parfait, until more than 25 tins were spread across the counter, our senses were working over time. Nearly an hour later we picked our favorite blends, bought darling tea accessories and trekked onward, only with the understanding that David’s Tea and our loose leaf-loving hearts would meet again.
Stop 5: Murray’s Cheese Shop
254 Bleecker St., New York murrayscheese.com No trip to New York City is complete without a visit to Murray’s Cheese Shop. As more than a sanctuary for cheese-lovers, this landmark spot welcomes food advocates to explore their artisanal offerings, from-scratch goods, specialty foods, appetizing made-to-order eats, demonstrations, tastings and more. Holding down the fort in Greenwich Village for over seven decades, plus setting up shop in Grand Central Market, is more than enough evidence to deem their business a success, and while it’s a wonderful achievement worth nodding to, we were bent on measuring their success in bites—bites of gooey, grilled cheese sandwich, of course. It was the Cuban that we eventually targeted after eyeballing their original menu of classics and sammies with a twist, like The Dude, It’s All Greek To Me, and The Alabama Slammer. A drool-worthy stroll through the store, spent ogling at homemade pastas, gourmet spreads and pickled goods completed our visit while waiting for the Cuban to reach its melted finale. Then, as if it was our first time eating anything, we parked it on a bench outside of Murray’s and focused all our attention on enjoying the comfort cuisine. No conversation was shared, less for the occasional “mmmmm” and “wow.” We picked up our bags and headed toward the next item on our schedule, a cheese pairing, as all true cheese-lovers do after downing such a meal.
Stop 6: Blind Tiger Ale House
281 Bleecker St., New York blindtigeralehouse.com A joyous reunion unfolded at this energetic New York bar, after we spotted our Chester County friends from Victory Brewing Company, Birchrun Hills Farm and Yellow Springs Farm. This was not a coincidence but the very reason we were attending—to support our fellow foodies from the Philadelphia area in a Pennsylvania versus Vermont Beer & Cheese Pairing Battle. The friendly and delicious battle offered a Victory flight of Dopplebock, Ranch DBL IPA, and Schwarz Pils carefully paired by Blind Tiger Ale House proprietor and Bon Vivant, Dave Brodrick with the help of Bill Covaleski, with Birchrun’s Blue, Yellow Springs’ Yellow Brick Road and Doe Run’s ‘Bathed in Victory’ for just $10. Guests could also enjoy three eight ounce Zero Gravity beers with corresponding Vermont cheeses from Champlain Valley Creamery, Major Farms, and Jasper Hill at the same cost. Perhaps it was the enticing price, the great company or the roaring fireplace emanating heat behind us but we, without debate, decided to order up both pairings and taste the afternoon away. Curious foodie minds and an instigating new friend had us mismatching suggested pairings to discover well-matched flavors on our own. As time wore on, the nature of each item developed, forcing us to try more beer-cheese couplings. Although, there wasn’t too much forcing that had to be done for we would have stayed and paired the afternoon away if we could. Like all good gatherings the noise level escalated, appreciators piled in and spirits were jolly. Most attendees wore rosey cheeks because they just stepped in from the cold or they’d been sipping for quite some time. Unfortunately, it was time for us to face cold-induced kind of cheeks and begin a journey back to Pennsylvania where our whirlwind food adventure all began. And just as Amtrak peacefully brought us to the city amidst a Nor’easter, to fulfill our ultimate culinary dream, we hopped on board and enjoyed a peaceful ride home. To book your own Amtrak adventure to the Big Apple, click here. Dish Tip for a Dish Trip? Do you have a favorite city or food destination that we should know about? Share with us in the comments below.
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