First Look: DanDan Is the Main Line’s Newest Culinary Experience

DanDan fans, rejoice—the restaurant recently opened a second location out in the ‘burbs. No more having to fight the Philadelphia rush hour to get your Asian cuisine fix! The new and larger (100 seats!) restaurant opened recently in the Devon Square Shopping Center with an expanded menu. Plus, parking is free and plentiful!

According to owners Kevin and Cat Huang (who live in nearby Devon), it took about seven months to get the spot, formerly occupied by Ella’s American Bistro, ready by opening up the interior space, incorporating dark herringbone floors, textured wallpapers, teal-padded booths with see-through bookcases and impressionistic pop art. The look is urban hip, yet remains zen-inspired—like the Philly spot—and is conducive to perusing (then devouring) the diverse menu.

Authentic Sichuan and Taiwanese cuisine (not fusion) rule here, although Cat says to “be prepared to stray from mainstream typical Chinese fare. Everything that comes from the scratch kitchen is meant to be shared and will to get to the table as our chef gets it ready. No heat lamps at DanDan, so expect your dish to be hot, crisp and ready to be enjoyed.”

Family-style dishes are sizable, as we worked our way through the menu beginning with the scallion baby shrimp appetizer ($10.95) that blended a mound of shrimp with a scallion green garlic puree that was mild but flavorful. A dazzling display of lightly breaded chicken (substitute fish or intestines) piled high with long hot peppers, sesame seeds and peppercorns ($14.25) came next and had its bite in all the right places. As we continued to stuff our mouths, the signature DanDan Noodles ($8.25) made an appearance in a beautiful bowl that included warm and tender lo mein noodles, chile oil, minced pork, sesame paste and pickled vegetables. Our chopsticks couldn’t keep up as golden bunapi mushrooms ($14.25), braised dongpo pork belly ($24.95) and a stunning bowl of green peppercorn fish ($19.95) made their way to our table. We were comfortable with the heat in our dishes, but Cat says the spice level can be adjusted upon request.

DanDan’s architecturally impressive bar is stunning (a gorgeous, knotty wood slab backdropped with grass green lighting, a Moroccan tile backsplash and a funky DanDan marquee-like feature overhead). Biker-bartender Nathan Churchill’s inspired list of focused cocktails paired perfectly with our meal. We highly recommend the Golden Martini (drops of soy sauce as a garnish? Incredible!) and the Fire & Ice (a fun splash of chili syrup bit us back). All cocktails use Asian-infused ingredients in some capacity and must be sipped to be believed. Wine and beer lists are inclusive and evolving.

Service is knowledgeable and efficient; just be patient during busier times.

DanDan is located at 214 Sugartown Rd., Wayne; (484) 580-8558.

  • Photos: Ed Williams