Not being one for heat and humidity, I was worried on Wednesday as I walked down 17th Street to check out the re-envisioned Center City BYOB Branzino. The restaurant has recently made some big changes, not only opening a courtyard behind the restaurant and opening a new, larger kitchen, but also hiring one of Philly’s favorite chefs in Mike Stollenwerk.
It was this courtyard where we’d be sampling some of the new menu options and learning more about the new course for the Italian ristorante, and it was for this reason I was dreading the humidity. Once I arrived, though, thoughts of sitting back there a sweaty mess immediately left my mind. The newly renovated space was cool and shaded, with enough overgrown plants to block out any sun that the neighboring tall buildings let through. But, not everything was kept out: a cool, consistent breeze ruffled the newly growing ivy and made the courtyard comfortable and relaxing. This, weather permitting, would be the perfect place to bring your date.
Once settled, passed hors d’oeuvres were brought so we could taste some of Stollenwerk’s new fare at the restaurant. The menu has been completely overhauled—though not without some pushback from management—and, it seems, for the best.
We were treated to small risotto balls with fresh mozzarella and black truffle, polenta cakes with tomato and olive tapenade, a shrimp ceviché in a spoonful of butter and a crostini topped with cured salmon and egg salad—an unlikely pairing that felt like smooth velvet on top of the crunchy crostini. Despite being one to never turn away a truffle, my favorite bite was actually the polenta combination; the polenta was the perfect vehicle for the sweet, acidic tomato and the salty olive topping, hitting on all levels for a two-bite treat that won’t be forgotten.
Hopefully, many will feel the same. It was clear when we walked in around 5 p.m.—and when we left around 7:30—that the restaurant needed to be rebooted: there were maybe three tables filled the entire time in a restaurant that could easily seat 200 people. While the usual Italian BYO fare may be falling out of favor in Philly for a more exciting dining experience, the owners of Branzino seem to have realized this with the hiring of Stollenwerk, who has proven he can be a culinary force in the city.
The tables won’t be empty for long—especially those in the courtyard, surrounded by ivy and cooled by that ever-present breeze. If you’re celebrating anything, need a romantic dinner or just want to sit outside on a beautiful Philly night and enjoy great food, Branzino will be the place to do it. And if you stop by at all during the summer, there’s a chance you’ll run into my wife and I out back.
You can learn more about Branzino by visiting their website or following them on Twitter and Facebook.
Photographs credited to Ryan Hudak.
