Grain Craft Bar + Kitchen joins Chester County’s growing slew of elevated eateries, revitalizing the recently retired spot of Kennett Square’s Half Moon Saloon and Restaurant. There’s no doubt the eatery is flourishing—the two-year flagship in Newark is currently doing gangbusters, and a new location is opening soon at the Summit North Marina on the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal (dubbed H2O) in Bear.
Owners Lee Mikles and Jim O’Donoghue have become experts at establishing a modern pub feel, with clean lines, attractive blue and gray palettes, a rustic vibe and a bar and food menu that make it way too easy to sit and stay awhile (like that’s a bad thing). General manager Alison Gutsche notes, “The Kennett Square area has quite the neighborhood feel. We are fortunate to be located center stage within a vibrant and eclectic community, and we look forward to bringing our best game with regard to an approachable menu, a diverse list of spirits, beers and cocktails and a talented lineup of live music all wrapped up with enthusiastic customer service.”
The redone bar is similar in size to the previous spot; however, it seems less claustrophobic this go-round. Lighter wood and glass-walled backdrops with more natural light make hanging with your homies more hip as 20 tapped brews (and a summer solstice cocktail on tap) are available to pour. The master mixologists also offer up custom bloody Marys (a brunch prerequisite) with local beef jerky and hand-stuffed blue cheese olives. Distinct and flavorful “crushes” are ideal for keeping summer cool and fun with fresh-squeezed fruit juices and flavored vodka.
The food menu is well-rehearsed with plenty of sharables, salads, burgers, tacos, larger plates, sides and must-share desserts. On our visit, we dove into a double-fist-sized bowl of horseradish beer cheese fondue that oozed, dripped and bit in all the right places using nacho and house-made potato chips as the crunchy vehicles of choice. We also heard from a diner next to us (who may have seen us ogling) that the crabby pretzel is “OMG amazing,” with crab spread, cheese and Old Bay seasoning all baked to a golden brown.
Keeping a sense of well-known southern Chesco charm on the menu, the KSQ short rib ravioli fits the bill precisely, with soft cheese-filled pasta pillows tossed with local ‘shrooms in a brandy peppercorn cream sauce. Hitting it out of the park for us was the vegetarian Zoodle Pasta dish (Most Creative winner of the February STAR Health Nutritious Newark Cook-Off) with its whimsical presentation, fresh taste and the summery lemon-cilantro dressing.
We understand that recently hired executive chef James Berman—whom we consider a culinary guru (and who is also a valued contributor to PA Eats)—is up to the challenge for all three locations. We look forward to hearing from him as to what lies on the horizon and what to expect from the kitchen.
The second floor of the building has always held an attraction to diners from previous eateries, and we’re not disappointed with this latest reincarnation (known as 410 at Grain). Remote-switched garage-door windows wrap around the upstairs bar and dining area to provide a relaxed and stunning view of the Kennett community and countryside. Be sure to take advantage of this hidden oasis as you sip, snack and gossip an afternoon away. Kudos to the servers who navigate trays of food and drinks up and down the stairs in aerobic efficiency.
Grain is perfect for families, couples or happy hour (daily 3 to 6 p.m.). Weekend brunches are already popular, with chicken and waffles and scrapple cheesesteaks high on our list of get-in-our bellies-now entrees.
Reservations are not taken at Grain; however, call-ahead seating for larger parties is accepted. Parking is on street or at various parking lots and garages in the borough.
Looking to have your local charity supported? Check out the Fork Support and Grain Celebrity programs for more information on how to fundraise for a charity that’s near and dear to your heart.
Grain Craft Bar + Kitchen is located at 108 W. State St. in Kennett Square; phone: (610) 925-5169.
- Photographs: Ed Williams