La Madera Bistro Keeps Kennett Square’s Dining Scene Moving in the Right Direction

Kennett Square has always been a consistent contender when it comes to local history, wineries, breweries and some of the most authentic eats in Chester County. Whether it’s a fine dining experience reserved for a special occasion or a family night out with the kids, the “mushroom capital of the world” has it all. With La Madera Bistro having settled snugly into State Street, the culinary choices in the borough continue to remain remarkable.

Fast approaching its one-year anniversary, this quaint BYOB has all the charm and familiarity of a bistro tucked into a tiny village in Spain. Original brick, dark reclaimed wooden walls and floors, intimate booths, soft lighting, premium stemware and plenty of elbow room allow diners to carry on private conversations in the commodious environment.

The former Byrsa Bistro location (which has since moved to Glen Mills) has been authentically reinvigorated by energetic owner/executive chef Nicandro Quiroz, who orchestrates the back of the house, while general manager Tina Dangel—stepping out of retirement—oversees the exemplary front. “The young people here think of me as their unofficial mother—they don’t want to disappoint me. They work hard to make our guests welcome and are willing to go the extra mile,” notes Tina. “Chef Nick and I have been fortunate to have worked together as a team for many years prior to this venture. We know each other’s philosophies and work ethics. That’s a definite milestone in any business.”

The Mediterranean-themed seasonal menu throws captivating Mexican and American curves with a full-flavored house-made guacamole mixed with chunks of oven-roasted tomatoes and dollops of goat cheese served with stacked oversize tortilla chips. The flatbread starter topped with chihuahua cheese, black beans, queso fresco, pico de gallo, tomatillo salsa and cilantro takes authentic carnitas up a notch. Many of the herbs, veggies and delicate micro green embellishments are grown at Tina’s own Rogue Fox Farm in Oxford.

In addition to the twists, classic recipes are also a priority at La Madera. Above board mushroom soup, spicy pasta diablo, spring lamb chops and a rousing take on a signature paella-style La Bomba Rice dish with just enough saffron, well-rinsed mussels, clams, shrimp and authentic bomba rice had us planning our next date night out.

Five-cheese cheese boards (while not entirely local cheeses) are exceptional, with well-rounded ample servings of gooey goats, crumbly cheddars and pungent blues married to all the right accoutrements (the roasted red grapes and house-created jams, dips and swipes are remarkable). Chef’s choice lunches make getting in and out during the week easy and oh-so-good with a half sandwich, cup of soup, petite salad and a mini house made dessert.

The seasoned enthusiasm of 20-something Chef Nicandro becomes evident as he explains his Mexican heritage. “In my culture, women were in the kitchen. It was difficult for men to hone an interest in cooking early on, but I persisted and now find much joy through hard work in my passion.” He continues, “I truly enjoy creating dishes from process to plate. When a customer’s face lights up with anticipation and surprise, that’s when I know my job has been done right.” Of note: The graceful artistic plates here rival the finest local and urban restaurants.

Always a plus in our book, the service is well-trained, personable and menu savvy. Close to 40 servers are scheduled throughout busier times of the year, so diner follow-up visits are well timed and remain unobtrusive.

Locals can enjoy dining here during Kennetts successful “Third Thursdays” this summer. Travelers who make the jaunt from Longwood Gardens and the Brandywine River Museum continue flooding social media with rave reviews.

La Madera is adept at off-site office catering and hosting small parties within the restaurant. The restaurant is also entertaining the idea of producing wine-pairing dinners in the near future. Stay tuned.

Hot Dish Tip: Most restaurants are closed on Mondays, so the search for a place to beat the Monday blues is usually hard to come by. However, La Madera is open Mondays (closed Tuesdays) so everyone wins!

Follow along on Facebook for the latest information and up-to-date menu additions.

Corkage fees apply. Parking can be found on street or in a convenient lot nearby.

La Madera Bistro is located at 102 E. State St. in Kennett Square; phone: (484) 732-7932.

  • Photos: Ed Williams

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