First Look: Andiario in West Chester

Co-owners Anthony Andiario (the restaurant’s namesake) and Maria van Schaijik have outdone themselves with this latest BYO addition to West Chester’s constantly evolving dining scene. Recently opened in March, the former Green Street consignment shop took about three months for the couple to execute their vision, and it was worth the wait.

During our recent visit, we found ourselves challenged to decide what we enjoyed most: The stunning restoration of the interior; the visibility of the energetic open kitchen; the selection of vibrant wall art and personal artistic accent pieces; or the focused, in-the-moment menu.

Perhaps just knowing that the duo have poured their heart, soul and exquisitely imaginative presence into the elevated dining experience is enough. “It’s uniquely us,” says Maria. “Every decision we’ve made, from the beginning, has allowed us to express ourselves while presenting an artisan approach to everything we do here.” The layout and design, textures and colors, kitchen philosophies and execution all work together to enhance this adventure in dining.

According to the pair, it’s all in the details. “We love having the open kitchen that was built from our design specs. We wanted to introduce the wood-burning grill and the solid maple pasta bench (designed and built by Anthony and his brother Chris) to give the restaurant a feeling of intimacy … like being in our home is the look we were going for,” says Maria. Mission accomplished!

The ambitious first-time owners previously honed their skills with James Beard Award-winner Chris Bianco in his restaurants in Phoenix, Arizona. Upon deciding to open a restaurant together, they felt that West Chester, home of van Schaijik’s parents, was the ideal spot to realize their dream. “We love West Chester,” says Maria, “The borough has been very receptive, and we’re looking forward to experiencing this journey together.”

Determined to foster the community-inspired vision at Andiario, Anthony is adamant about the importance of establishing good relationships with local farms and businesses. Case in point was a recent menu dish of blue hubbard squash (from Green Meadow Farm) nicchi (pasta created from Bing Stony Hill Farm duck eggs and flour from Castle Valley Mill) which was served in brown butter with a drizzle of Galer Estate Vineyard and Winery vincotto and shaved St. Malachi reserve cheese from The Farm at Doe Run.

Anthony believes “that the menu should be more than spring, summer, fall and so on. It should reflect what’s fresh and available at the moment — the term ‘hyper-seasonal’ is appropriate.”

Pastas here are exquisitely crafted with tradition in mind. “Traveling through Italy was inspiring to me,” notes Anthony who was recently observed, via Facebook, restringing his pettine for rolling out garganelli. Other pastas he’s tackled include tonnarelli, campanelle and caramelle (check out Anthony’s popular Instagram feed for more). He favors an Italian-made Desco pasta cooker to make sure pasta is cooked at the correct temperature.

On the evening we dined, the menu was set up logically and al a carte with “Beginnings” (appetizers) that included bitter greens, Birchrun blue cheese, black walnuts with a creamy sherry vinaigrette and honey and an incredible Massachusetts scallop crudo with preserved blackberries and miners lettuce. Two “Pasta” choices (including the blue hubbard squash nicci mentioned above) were followed by a short list of “Proteins” that included grilled chicken breast with parsnip puree and baby red potatoes cooked in Lancaster butter as well as a exceedingly tender pan-seared golden tilefish with salsify in a mushroom and crab brodetto. Aged New York strip steaks were a limited special addition to the menu this night too.

Plates are delivered with texture, color and precision, prompting “wows” at every turn. Chiselled, carved and glazed dinnerware/bowls serve as the perfect canvas for the meal here. No two presentations are alike. Be sure to note the beautifully sculpted salad bowls made with local black walnut.

Don’t skip desserts, which are created in-house and include apple tarts, cardamom leaf panna cotta with honey, quince preserve and the tastiest biscotti we’ve had in awhile. Coffee drinks — espresso, cappuccino and Americano — are a must in handmade cups.

The space is well lit, colorful, welcoming and large enough to avoid squeezing past your neighbor. A dark wooden service table adorned with large branches and fine stemware anchors tufted moss green bank benches, soft cream cushioned chairs, as well as oversized white-clothed tables, make dining an experience of comfortable luxury. Gigantic vibrant wall art is perfectly placed and adds a chic urban vibe. Of note are two resilient olive trees that made a cross-country journey with Anthony and Maria to eventually frame the entrance of the restaurant.

Pleasant and educated servers are alert and unobtrusive. Maria floats about the room serving pasta, sharing stories and answering questions like she’s your new best friend.

Open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner only, the BYO is courting a liquor license and hopes to offer craft cocktails and a versatile wine list when approved. Reservations are highly recommended and can be made by calling the restaurant.

Andiario is located at 106 W. Gay Street in West Chester; phone: (484) 887 -0919.

• Photos: Ed Williams